8_tanzania-5-central-tanz-lake-vic.pdf

(1762 KB) Pobierz
Tanzania
Central
Tanzania &
Lake Victoria
(Chapter)
Edition
5th Edition, June 2012
Pages
28
Page Range
201-227
PDF
Coverage includes:
Dodoma, Babati, Mt Hanang, Kondoa Rock-Art Sites, Singida,
Musoma, Mwanza, Around Mwanza, Ukerewe/ Rubondo Island National Park,
Biharamulo and Bukoba.
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Central Tanzania
Why Go?
Dodoma ........................202
Babati ...........................206
Mt Hanang .................... 207
Kondoa Rock-
Art Sites........................208
Singida .........................209
Best of Culture
Kondoa Rock-Art Sites
(p208)
»
Cultural Tourism Programs
(p206)
»
»
Katesh’s
mnada
(market;
p207)
Best of Nature
»
Kondoa Rock-Art Sites
(p208)
»
»
Well off most tourist itineraries, central Tanzania is like no-
where else in the country. Its semi-arid climate and lack of
permanent rivers discouraged early settlement and more re-
cently terrible roads have kept visitors away. But even with
improved transport (most main highways are now sealed),
this remains a bypassed region, and probably always will.
It’s not without worthy attractions, though. Prime among
these are the enigmatic Kondoa Rock-Art Sites scattered
across remote hills along the Rift Valley Escarpment. Mt
Hanang, Tanzania’s fourth-highest peak and gateway to the
colourful Barabaig and other local tribes, is another draw.
Cultural Tourism Programs in these two areas offer a win-
dow into traditional lifestyles little touched by visitors that
just can’t be had anymore in the heavily touristed north.
Dodoma, Tanzania’s legislative capital, is less inspiring, but
it hosts interesting architecture and the region’s best facili-
ties. If you’re prepared to rough things a little with transport
and accommodation, you’ll undoubtedly have a memorable
time here.
When to Go
Dodoma
°C/°F
Temp
40/104
30/86
20/68
10/50
0/32
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
Mt Hanang (p207)
Lake Singidani (p209)
Rainfall
inches/mm
16/400
12/300
8/200
4/100
0
Apr-Nov
During
the dry season,
it’s dusty, but
temperatures are
refreshingly cool.
Dec-Mar
During
the rainy season,
many roads are
difficult to travel.
Apr-Aug
Flamingos reside
in some lakes.
202
Dodoma
POP 150,000
Arid Dodoma sits in not-so-splendid isola-
tion in the geographic centre of the coun-
try, at a height of about 1100m. Although
the town was located along the old caravan
route connecting Lake Tanganyika and Cen-
tral Africa with the sea, and the Central Line
railway arrived just after the turn of the
20th century, Dodoma was of little conse-
quence until 1973 when it was named Tanza-
nia’s official capital and headquarters of the
ruling Chama Cha Mapinduzi (CCM) party.
According to the original plan, the entire
government was to move to Dodoma by the
mid-1980s and the town was to be expanded
to ultimately encompass more than 300,000
residents, all living in smaller independent
communities set up along the lines of Ny-
erere’s
ujamaa
(familyhood) program. The
plans proved unrealistic for a variety of rea-
To Mwanza
(110km)
Mwadui
Ghorofani
Mto Wa
Mbu
Karatu
Shinyanga
Lake
Eyasi
M ou
Kidero
Igunga
Nzega
ns
ntai
Lake
Kwa
Manyara
National
Kuchinja
Park
Mbulu
Dongobesh
Lake
Kitangiri
A104
Lake
Balangida
Gendabi
Giting
Wembere
Swamp
Singida
To Tabora
(20km)
Mt
Hanang
(3417m)
Bereko
Katesh
Kolo
Tarangire
National
Park
Babati
Lake
Babati
CENTR AL TANZ ANIA
D O D O M A
Lake
Singidani
Pahi
Busi
Lake
Kindai
Mangati
Plains
Kondoa
Kondoa
Rock-Art
Sites
A104
Manyoni
Meia Meia
Makutapora
Hombolo
0
0
100 km
50 miles
Lake
Sulunga
Dodoma
B129
Central Tanzania Highlights
1
Visiting the mysterious
Kondoa Rock-Art Sites
(p208)
Barabaig, Sandawe and
other traditional tribes
of Central Tanzania on a
cultural tour out of
Babati
and Kondoa
(p206)
2
Getting to know the
3
Summiting Tanzania’s
seldom-climbed fourth-
highest peak,
Mt Hanang
(p207)
4
Experiencing a colourful
mnada
(market)
5
Admiring the religious
and political architecture of
Dodoma
(p202)
6
Relishing travel
completely off the beaten
path in
Singida
(p209)
203
TANZANIA’S WINE INDUSTRY
Dodoma is the centre of Tanzania’s tiny wine industry, originally started by Italian mis-
sionaries in the early 20th century. Most of what is produced is for church use, and the
commercially available vintage won’t win awards any time soon, but you can sample it
at Leone l’Africano, New Dodoma Hotel and the three mini-markets listed under Eating.
Fresh grapes are sold by street vendors throughout the city.
It’s possible to visit some of the wineries.
Tavico
(Tanganyika Vineyards Company)
is
right in town, just southwest of Parliament. If the manager is around he’ll have someone
show you the ageing facility. If you’re willing to make a day of it, you can visit the vine-
yards at the Italian-owned
Cetawico
(Central Tanzania Wine Company;
%
0786-799010; www.
cetawico.com)
, which bottled its
fi
rst product in 2005 and is now one of Dodoma’s most
successful vintners. It’s 50km northeast of Dodoma at Hombolo.
sons and although the legislature meets here
(hence the periodic profusion of 4WDs), Dar
es Salaam remains the unrivalled economic
and political centre.
Though there has been slow growth over
the years, its grandiose street layout and
the imposing architecture of many church
and government buildings sharply contrast-
ing with the slow-paced reality of daily life
makes Dodoma feel as though it’s dressed in
clothes that are several sizes too big.
Because Dodoma has so many govern-
ment buildings, be careful taking photos.
Lion Rock
HILL
1
Sights
The most interesting sights in Dodoma are
its grand houses of worship. In an interest-
ing swapping of styles, the domed
Anglican
church
(Hospital Rd)
in the town centre looks
like something straight out of the Mid-
dle East while the
Jamatkhana (Ismaili)
Mosque
(Mahakama St)
across the road, built
in 1954 and used exclusively by Dodoma’s
Indian community, has a distinctly British
Neoclassical design. Next door is the mod-
ernist
Lutheran cathedral
(Mahakama St)
. To
the west of the centre, the enormous
Catho-
lic cathedral
(Mirembe Rd)
has Roman-style
mosaics showing some saints, including the
Ugandan Martyrs. Funded by the toppled
Libyan dictator and opened in 2010, the
pink
Gaddhaffi Mosque
(Jamhuri Rd)
north
of the centre is one of East Africa’s largest
mosques. It can hold 4500 worshippers.
Bunge
BUILDING
The rocky hill overlooking Dodoma from the
north makes a decent hike (about 45 minutes
to the top). There have been some muggings
there in the past, but it’s a popular spot on
weekends and busy enough that it should be
OK; still, don’t take any valuables and go in
a group just to be sure. Dalla-dallas (pick-up
trucks or minibuses; Tsh300) from Jamatini
to Area D pass the base; tell the conductor
you’re going to Mlimwa. A prime minister’s
residence was under construction on the
hill, so access may be restricted in the future.
The enticing-looking hill west of town is defi-
nitely off-limits because of the nearby prison.
Museum of Geosciences
MUSEUM
(Kikuyu St; adult/child US$20/US$5;
h
8am-
3.30pm Mon-Fri)
Even at the old price of
CENTR AL TANZ ANIA
D O D O M A
Tsh500, this rather forlorn collection of rock
samples and geological information wasn’t
a big draw. If you’re a fanatical rock hound,
inquire at the Geological Survey of Tanzania
Laboratory behind the post office.
4
Sleeping
Water supplies are erratic, so be prepared
for bucket baths at the cheapest hotels. Also,
hotels
fi
ll up fast whenever parliament is in
session, so you may need to try several be-
fore
fi
nding a room.
New Dodoma Hotel
HOTEL
$$
(
%
026-232 1641; Railway Rd; s/d with fan
Tsh60,000/90,000, s with air-con Tsh90,000-
200,000, d with air-con Tsh130,000-220,000;
paiWs
)
The former Railway Hotel’s
The home of Tanzania’s parliament is
an African-influenced round building.
It’s only open to visitors during sessions
(bring your passport) but well worth a
gander from the outside at other times.
Photography is strictly prohibited.
fl
ower-filled courtyard is a lovely oasis and
the rooms have some style. The suites face
the main street and are noisier than the
standard rooms. There’s a gym, good dining
and a not-so-clean swimming pool (non-
guests Tsh4000).
204
Dodoma
A
B
C
e
0
#
0
400 m
0.2 miles
D
1
To Airport (1.2km);
Leone l'Africano (2.8km);
Lion Rock (3km)
Byiroadi
Market
Rd
huri
Jam
Ave
a
ong
Nyerer
e
eni S t
ì
#
Ba
Tabora
Mohammed
›
#
Ave
Trans
2
2
8
ve
Mbeya
ú
#
14
Majengo
Ave
za A
Seventh St
nga
#
ð
wa
Market
˜
M
#
Nyerere
#
12
Lindi S
e
t
a Av
ì
#
Square
ú
arak
ÿ
#
Mad
ß
#
7
#
ð
Tembo
Rd
Innoor Mosque
vu
o
#
ð
11
Ave
To Bunge
#
9
ÿ
Nd
#
#
î
#
ÿ
(300m)
#
ð
15
18
-
ß
Sunni
#
ú
#
u
St
ú
#
16
Mosque
ú
#
tib
Dar es Salaam Rd
Ha
-
17
#
#
ú
3
3
˜
#
ì
#
›
#
-
#
13
Jamatin
#
ß
4
Av
Mtei Bus
##
e
21
› -
Ü
#
Station
#
19
î
1
Ü
5
#
Maasai
›
To Tavico
#
Mirem
b
e
Rd
2 2
Market
20
(200m)
2
Colonial War
Ü
#
2
2
Cemetery
ñ
#
2
Railway
d
£
Train
#
Station
Rd
ga R
rin
I
hi
Rd
ÿ
#
CDA
St
M t e nd
Ave
Mwanz
a Ave
Sabasa
ba
Rd
Mahak
am
Bo m a R
d
4
Askari
Rd
ò
#
ÿ
#
10
Kika R
d
â
6
#
Kikuyu
St
A
B
C
D
Kilondoma Inn
GUESTHOUSE
$
(
%
0745-477399; off Ndovu Rd; d Tsh15,000;
pa
)
level. Rooms are comfy and clean, though
you don’t get much extra as the price rises.
Yarabi Salama
GUESTHOUSE
$
(CDA St; d without bathroom Tsh8000)
As good as
We’re not sure how this new place can offer
so much (rooms have air-conditioning, cable
TV, fans and hot water) for so little. Even if
the price rises a bit it would still be one of
the best values in Dodoma. Double beds are
just barely big enough for two.
Kenya Lodge
GUESTHOUSE
$
(
%
0764-538 6541; Seventh St; r Tsh15,000-22,000)
any (and better than most) similarly priced
guesthouses in the commercial centre.
5
Eating
A modest little good-value place that sets it-
self apart with small details, like fake
fl
ow-
ers in the restaurant and a fake cliff fronting
the terrace. Staff here are very helpful and
friendly.
Kidia Vision Hotel
HOTEL
$
(
%
0784-210766; Ninth St; d Tsh25,000-40,000
ste Tsh60,000-70,000;
p
)
Well-managed and,
Aladdin’s Cave
SNACKS, EUROPEAN
$
(CDA St; snacks from Tsh300, meals Tsh2000-
8000;
h
9.30am-1pm daily & 3.30-5.30pm Tue-Sat;
v
)
Dodoma’s version of an old-fashioned
candy store and soda fountain. It also serves
veggie burgers and pizzas.
Leone l’Africano
ITALIAN
$$
(
%
0788-629797; Mlimwa Rd; meals Tsh8500-
12,000;
h
lunch Sat & Sun, dinner Tue-Sun)
Tasty
unlike most other hotels in its class, well
maintained, this is a very solid choice at this
Italian food, including one of Tanzania’s
better pizzas, served in the shadow of Lion
Rock. You can try local wines or play it safe
‚
6
6
a St
‚
‚
Kiny
ve
nj a A
Che
e
ja Av
Umo
ve
za A
wan
M
Jamhuri
Stadium
#
ß
3
Mpwap
Moshi
wa Rd
1
Kon
doa
Rd
Sixth S
t
Ave
A r us ha
t
th S
Eigh
t
th S
Nin
t
hS
nt
Rd
ve
l
Ele
pita
s
Ho
CENTR AL TANZ ANIA
E AT I O M A
DOD NG
4

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