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MARLBOROUGH & NELSON
© Lonely Planet Publications
432
Marlborough &
Nelson
Splashed across the northern end of the South Island, the Marlborough and Nelson regions
are many travellers’ first southern contacts after crossing Cook Strait from Wellington. The
South Island’s population only recently topped one million, but less people doesn’t mean
less action: there’s just as much to do here, and more room to do it!
The name of the genius who discovered that Marlborough’s cool, sunny climate is perfect
for growing grapes has been lost to history, but the wine world is now toasting his (or her)
legacy: Sauvignon Blanc from the Marlborough Wine Region is a world-class winner. Also here
is pretty Picton, and the sunken valleys of the Marlborough Sounds: the Queen Charlotte
Track is a tramping and mountain-biking haven.
The coast road southeast from Blenheim to Christchurch tracks through stunning (and we
mean it!) Kaikoura. Here, snowcapped summits erupt from the coastline, while not far offshore,
a continental crag offers up a smorgasbord for the whales, dolphins, seals and seabirds.
West of Marlborough is Nelson, an artsy, midsize city dotted with photogenic Victorian
houses. Pubs, galleries and hip cafés set the scene for creative discourse; a vigorous coffee
culture keeps the locals humming. The Nelson region is also the access point for tramping
and kayaking in New Zealand’s most-visited national park, Abel Tasman. Not far away is
Kaiteriteri, with one of NZ’s most alluring beaches, while further west Golden Bay mellows-
out in hippiedom near the abandoned, end-of-the-world beauty of Farewell Spit.
HIGHLIGHTS
Eyeballing your first
whale
(p455) off
Kaikoura
Nosing and noshing your way through the
Marlborough Wine Region
(p448): Sauvi-
gnon Blanc and gourmet feasts aplenty
Waking up in a boutique hideaway, or
tramping the Queen Charlotte Track in the
Marlborough Sounds
(p439)
Sea kayaking through postcard-perfect
Abel Tasman National Park
(p478)
Getting airborne in the Nelson region:
paragliding
(p461),
skydiving
(p472) or
hang gliding
(p461)
Planning a creative outburst in Nelson’s
cool
cafés
(p466)
Reaching the end of the road in chilled-out, artsy
Golden Bay
(p479)
TELEPHONE CODE: 03
www.destinationmarlborough.com
www.nelsonnz.com
Kaikoura
Golden Bay
Abel Tasman
National Park
Marlborough
Sounds
Nelson
Marlborough
Wine Region
MARLBOROUGH & NELSON
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MA R L B O R O U G H R E G I O N • • Pi c t o n
433
Climate
The forecast is good: Marlborough and Nelson
soak up some of NZ’s sunniest weather.
January and February are the warmest months,
with temperatures averaging 22°C; July is the
coldest month, averaging 12°C. It’s wetter and
more windswept the closer you get to Farewell
Spit and the West Coast.
MARLBOROUGH & NELSON FACTS
Eat
Seafood, seafood and more seafood (especially
local green-shell mussels and crayfish)
Drink
Sauvignon blanc in the Marlborough winer-
ies (p448); microbrewed beer in Nelson (p461)
Read
The Wine Atlas of New Zealand
by Michael
Getting There & Around
Soundsair
(www.soundsair.com)
is a local airline con-
necting Wellington with Picton, Blenheim,
Nelson and Kaikoura.
Air New Zealand
(www
.airnewzealand.com)
offers domestic flights.
Interisland Cook Strait ferries pull into
Picton, often the starting point for South Island
explorations. From here you can connect to
almost anywhere in the South Island by bus;
InterCity is the major operator, but there are also
local shuttle buses. Tranz Scenic’s
TranzCoastal
train takes the scenic route from Picton to
Christchurch, via Blenheim and Kaikoura.
Renting a car is easy – there’s a slew of car-
hire offices at Picton ferry terminal.
Water transport, sea kayaking or walking
are the best ways to navigate large tracts of this
region, including the Marlborough Sounds
and Abel Tasman National Park.
Cooper and John McDermott
Listen to
Rootsy reggae from Kaikoura band
Salmonella Dub
Watch
Whales, seals, dolphins and seabirds in
Kaikoura (p455)
Swim at
The heaven-sent beaches in Abel Tasman
National Park (p478)
Festival
Nelson Arts Festival (p463); Kaikoura
Seafest (p455)
Tackiest tourist attraction
Dazzling dresses
at Nelson’s World of WearableArt & Classic Cars
Museum (p464)
Go green
Golden Bay (p479) – more sustainable
living, untrammelled wilderness and organic food
than you can lob a lentil at.
brought about the first permanent European
settlement in the district.
PICTON
pop 4000
MARLBOROUGH REGION
The convoluted maze of Marlborough Sounds
waterways are a South Island spectacle. Picton
is the gateway to the island and a prime spot
for walking, sailing, kayaking and exploring
Sounds’ hideaways. A cork’s pop south of
Picton is agrarian Blenheim, and the world-
famous Marlborough Wine Region.
Half-asleep in winter, but hyperactive (with
2000 ferry arrivals per day) in summer, Picton
clusters around a deep gulch at the head of
Queen Charlotte Sound. It’s the main marine
access point to the South Island, and the best
place from which to explore the Marlborough
Sounds and tackle the Queen Charlotte Track.
The vibe here is touristy and transient, but
there are some great hostels, decent watering
holes and plenty of good eateries.
History
Long before Abel Tasman sheltered on the east
coast of D’Urville Island in 1642 (more than
100 years before James Cook blew through in
1770), Maori traders and war parties knew the
Marlborough area as Te Tau Ihu o Te Waka a
Maui. Cook named Queen Charlotte Sound;
his detailed reports made the area the best-
known sheltered anchorage in the southern
hemisphere. In 1827 French navigator Jules
Dumont d’Urville discovered the narrow
strait now known as French Pass. His officers
named the island just to the north in his hon-
our. In the same year a whaling station was es-
tablished at Te Awaiti in Tory Channel, which
Information
Picton i-SITE visitor information centre
(
%
03-520
3113; www.destinationmarlborough.com; Foreshore;
h
8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri, 9am-4pm Sat & Sun) Picton
pamphlets, plus Sounds maps and walking information.
DOC counter staffed during summer.
Picton Police Station
(
%
03-520 3120; 36 Broadway;
h
24hr)
Post office
(
%
03-573 6900; Mariners Mall, 72 High St;
h
8.30am-5pm Mon-Fri)
Take Note
(
%
03-573 6107; 28 High St;
h
9am-
5.30pm Mon-Fri, to 4.30pm Sat, 10am-2pm Sun) Books
and magazines.
United Video
(
%
03-573 7466; 63 High St;
h
9am-
9pm) Internet access.
MARLBOROUGH & NELSON
434
MA R L B O R O U G H R E G I O N • • Pi c t o n
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MARLBOROUGH & NELSON
Cape Farewell
Puponga
Pakawau
0
0
50 km
30 miles
Farewell Spit
See Marlborough Sounds
Map (p441)
TASMAN
SEA
Kahurangi Point
Patura
Aorere
Bainham
Golden Bay
Collingwood
See Abel Tasman National
Park Map (p476)
Oparara
Karamea
ait
Pohara
60
D'Urville Island
Totaranui
Heaphy
Pupu
Takaka
Marlborough Sounds
Marlborough
Track
Springs
Maritime Park
Abel Tasman
Sounds
National Park
Kahurangi
Devil River
National Park
Peak (1775m)
Marahau
Upper Takaka Kaiteriteri
Tasman Bay
Mt Domett
Riwaka
(1645m)
Cobb
River
Motueka
Rabbit
Leslie-Karamea
y
Ruby Bay
Island
lle
Track
Woodstock
Va
Rai Valley
6
Mapua
Hw
y
C
St ook
r
Moute
Motueka
Tasman Mountains
Mt Kendall
(1762m)
Karamea Bight
Little Wanganui
67
y
Brightwater
Hw
Tapawera
Hector
Granity
Denniston
Westport
Buller Gorge
Inangahua
69
6
Kawatiri
Ri
W
aih
o
p
a
i
Wangapeka
Track
Seddonville
Mt Owen
(1875m)
Hope
Saddle
Rv
Havelock
Nelson
Waikawa
Canvastown
6
Stoke
Picton
Richmond
Maungatapu
Saddle
Ferry to
Marlborough
1
Wakefield
Mt Richmond
Wellington
Wine Region
Cloudy Bay
Forest Park
Blenheim
Renwick
e
60
St Arnaud
Aw
Gowan
Bridge
Murchison
Tophouse
Rainbow Valley
Ski Field
d
lR
at
e
a
re
ng
iver
Ra
R
65
nd
airau
o
W
hm
c
Wairau Lagoons
Airport
Seddon
e
Riv
r
Grassmere
Ward
Cape
Campbell
Lake
Rotoroa
Mt Travers
(2338m)
Lake Rotoiti
Nelson Lakes
National Park
Severn
(2027m)
Se
n
aso
a
Victoria
Forest Park
Reefton
7
65
Mt Una
(2301m)
Faerie Queen
e
nc
(2237m)
pe
rM
ou
nt
s
ain
Molesworth
In
dK
lan
o
aik
ur
as
Kekerengu
R
r
ive
Clarence
1
Mt Haast
(1587m)
S
Dillon Cone
(2173m)
St Bernard
(2256m)
Ikamatua
Springs
Junction
Lewis Pass
Maruia
Springs
Mt Ajax
(1832m)
Lake Sumner
Forest Park
Hanmer
Springs
Hanmer Forest
ar
Park
aw
a
Cl
Manakau
(2610m)
as
ur
o
aik
Lyford
Mt
Kaikoura Peninsula
d K
Village
Mt
Lyford
Kaikoura
Goose Bay
Oaro
c
ren
e
Se
70
u
R
iver
Waia
7
Hanmer
Springs
Waiau
SOUTH
PACIFIC
OCEAN
ay
Conw
Rv
Parnassus
Sights & Activities
The
Edwin Fox
is purportedly the world’s
ninth-oldest wooden ship (who counts these
things?). Built of teak in Bengal, the 48m,
760-ton vessel was launched in 1853. During
its chequered career it carried troops to the
Crimean War, convicts to Australia and im-
migrants to NZ. The
Edwin Fox Maritime Centre
(
%
03-573 6868; www.nzmaritime.co.nz/edwinfox.htm;
Dunbar Wharf; adult/child $8/2.50;
h
9am-5pm)
has
are a hit with kids. There’s also a cinema
here (p438).
Above the foreshore, the
Picton Museum
(
%
03-573 8283; pictonmuseum@slingshot.co.nz; London
Quay; adult/concession/child $4/2/1;
h
9am-4pm Mar-
Nov, to 5pm Dec-Feb)
has a collection of whale
maritime exhibits including the decrepit ship,
which is being chemically restored.
Next door is the
Seahorse World Aquarium
(
%
03-573 6030; www.seahorseworld.co.nz; Dunbar
Wharf; adult/child/family $16/9/40;
h
9am-8pm Dec-Feb,
10am-5.30pm Mar-Nov).
Inside the salty smell-
ing shed, touch-pools and feeding sessions
bones, shells and model ships, and dis-
plays on Marlborough Sounds history and
Maori lore.
A free i-SITE map details several walks
around town, including an easy 1km track
along Picton Harbour’s eastern side to Bob’s
Bay. The
Snout Walkway
(three hours return)
continues along the ridge from Bob’s Bay
offering ace Queen Charlotte Sound views.
Diving opportunities around the Sounds
include the wreck of the
Mikhail Lermontov,
MARLBOROUGH & NELSON
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MA R L B O R O U G H R E G I O N • • Pi c t o n
435
a Russian cruise ship that sank in Port Gore in
1986 – allegedly the world’s biggest diveable
cruise-ship wreck.
Dive Picton
(
%
03-573 7323;
www.pictondiversworld.co.nz; cnr Auckland St & London Quay;
dive trips from $165;
h
8am-6pm)
runs dives to the
MAORI NZ: MARLBOROUGH &
NELSON
Maori culture on the South Island is often
less obvious than in the north, but that
doesn’t mean it’s any less potent! In the
Marlborough and Nelson regions, the fol-
lowing operators are keyed into
Maoritanga
(Maori culture):
Harakeke Basket Weaving
(p472) One-
day flax-weaving workshops south of
Motueka.
Maori Tours
(p455) Small-group history
and cultural tours around Kaikoura.
Maori Uncut
(p477) Maori cultural tours
in Abel Tasman National Park.
Myths & Legends Eco-tours
(below)
Eco-oriented cultural and wildlife
cruises on the Marlborough Sounds.
Te Hikoi Maori
(p463) Learn the
haka
(war dance) or take a bush-medicine
walk at Nelson’s Whakatu Marae.
Mikhail Lermontov
and other Sounds wrecks.
It also offers equipment hire and ‘Discover
Scuba Diving’ courses ($145).
Picton Water Taxis
(
%
03-573 7853; www.picton
watertaxis.co.nz; London Quay;
h
7am-6pm)
hires out
mountain bikes (half-/full day $35/50), kay-
aks (half-/full day $45/75) and power boats
(from $290 full day plus fuel), and runs a
water-taxi service. Other companies, includ-
ing Marlborough Sounds Adventure Company
and Endeavour Express, offer mountain-bike
rental for the Queen Charlotte Track from $50
per day; see below.
Too terrestrial?
Skydive the Sounds
(
%
0800
373 2648, 03-573 9101; www.skydivethesounds.com; Picton
Airport; 9000/12,000ft jump $245/295;
h
9am-5pm)
of-
fers tandem skydives with sensational views
(if you remember to open your eyes). You
could also try the North Island–South Island
‘X Flight’ for $620: fly out of Wellington and
skydive into Picton. Better than the ferry! See
also the boxed text, p420.
Tours
There are loads of local tours to choose from,
most including a cruise-and-walk combina-
tion around Queen Charlotte Sound. There’s
also kayaking, wildlife-spotting, mountain
biking and winery touring in the region.
Active Eco Tour
(
%
03-573 7199; www.sealswimming
.com; Waikawa Marina; 3hr seal swim tour incl equip-
ment adult/child $95/85;
h
9am-5pm) Get underwater
with speedy Sounds seals. Wetsuits, snorkels, masks and
Picton-to-Waikawa transport provided. The marina is
northeast of town.
Beachcomber Fun Cruises
(
%
0800 624 526, 03-573
6175; www.beachcombercruises.co.nz; Town Wharf; mail
run $80, cruises $53-80) Two- to four-hour cruises, some
with resort lunches. Cruise/walk, cruise/bike, full-day
kayaking and Queen Charlotte Track options also avail-
able. Also operates the Queen Charlotte Sound mail run, a
genuine NZ Post delivery service.
Cougar Line
(
%
0800 504 090, 03-573 7925; www
.cougarlinecruises.co.nz; Town Wharf; cruises adult/child
from $63/25) Full-day cruise/walk deals, three-hour cruises,
resort lunches, track transport and summer twilight cruises.
Dolphin Watch Ecotours
(
%
0800 9453 5433, 03-573
8040; www.dolphinswimming.co.nz; Picton Foreshore;
half-day viewing/swimming tours $80/130) Ecotours
around Queen Charlotte Sound and Motuara Island bird
sanctuary. Also cruise/walk options, plus swim-with-dusky-
dolphins trips.
Endeavour Express
(
%
03-573 5456; www.boatrides
.co.nz; Town Wharf; full-day cruise/walk options $45-55)
Backpacker-friendly company offering cruise/walk options
and Queen Charlotte Track transfers. Mountain bikes and
camping gear for hire.
Marlborough Sounds Adventure Company
(
%
0800 283 283, 03-573 6078; www.marlborough
sounds.co.nz; Town Wharf; 1-/2-/3-/4-day tours from
$95/140/395/1270, twilight paddle $60, full-day kayak hire
$50) Professional sea-kayak and tramping trips. Kayaking
ranges from three-hour twilight paddles to four-day guided
tours. Also multiday guided walk/bike adventures on the
track. Rentals (bikes, kayaks, camping gear) also available.
Myths & Legends Eco-tours
(
%
03-573 6901; www
.eco-tours.co.nz; half-/full-day cruises $150/200) A Sounds
day with a local Maori family – longtime locals, storytell-
ers and environmentalists. There are different day trips to
choose from (bird-watching, visiting Ship Cove) or evening
barbecue cruises ($150).
Sounds Connection
(p448) Full-day gourmet wine tours.
Wilderness Guides
(
%
0800 266 266, 03-520 3095;
www.wildernessguidesnz.com; Picton Railway Station,
3 Auckland St; full-day kayak/walk/bike incl lunch from
$90/115/130) Marlborough and Nelson regional tours, with
all-inclusive guided Queen Charlotte Track (one/four days
$175/1250) and Nydia Track (two days $300) walks. Kayak-
ing and full-day combo options (kayaking/walking/biking
and a cruise back to Picton) from $115. Bike hire $45 per day.
MARLBOROUGH & NELSON
436
MA R L B O R O U G H R E G I O N • • Pi c t o n
lonelyplanet.com
PICTON
A
INFORMATION
Picton i-SITE.....................................
1
Picton Police Station.........................
2
Post Office ......................................
3
Take Note........................................
4
United Video....................................
5
B4
B5
B5
B4
B5
0
0
600 m
0.4 miles
B
C
B4
B4
C5
C5
C5
D4
A5
A5
A4
B4
D
DRINKING
Flying Haggis..................................
30
B4
Seamus's........................................
31
B4
ENTERTAINMENT
Picton Cinema..............................(see 12)
TRANSPORT
Ace..............................................(see 33)
Apex............................................(see 33)
Bob's
Arrow Water Taxis.........................
32
B4
Bay
Avis.............................................(see 33)
Bluebridge Ferries.........................(see 33)
Budget.........................................(see 33)
Hertz............................................(see 33)
InterCity.......................................(see 33)
Interislander.................................(see 33)
Picton Ferry Terminal...................... B3
33
Picton Water Taxis.........................
34
C4
Thrifty..........................................(see 33)
West Bay Water Transport.............
35
B3
Lookout
Sc
1
2
SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES
Beachcomber Fun Cruises................
6
C4
Cougar Line.....................................
7
C4
Dive Picton...................................(see 15)
Dolphin Watch Ecotours...............(see 10)
Edwin Fox Maritime Centre..............
8
B4
Edwin Fox Ship.................................
9
B4
Endeavour Express.........................
10
C4
Port
Marlborough Sounds Adventure
Shakespeare
Company...................................(see 7)
Picton Museum..............................
11
B4
Seahorse World Aquarium..............
12
B4
Wilderness Guides..........................
13
B4
SLEEPING
Americano Motor Inn.....................
14
Atlantis Backpackers.......................
15
Gables B&B....................................
16
Harbour View Motel......................
17
Jasmine Court................................
18
Picton Top 10 Holiday Park............
19
Sennen House................................
20
Sequoia Lodge
Backpackers...............................
21
Tombstone Backpackers.................
22
Villa................................................
23
EATING
Reserve
AS Echo Café & Bar ......................
24
Fresca.............................................
25
Gusto.............................................
26
Le Café...........................................
27
Picton Village Bakkerij....................
28
Supervalue Supermarket.................
29
Scenic
C4
B4
B4
B4
B4
B5
To The Snout
(3km)
el
lin
W
gt
o
n
ou
to
Fe
rry
Low
Upp
er B
er
ob'
Bay Bob's
s Ba
Trac
y Tr
k
r Vi
ack
ew
Tra
ck
Lookout
Victoria
Domain
t
T
rack
3
To Portage
turn-off (24km);
Havelock (37km);
Nelson (105km)
Picton
Harbour
Su
ss
ex
St
33
35
8
12
13
Rd
r
Li
nc
Dunbar
Wharf
Breakwater
24
11
27
Town
Wharf
32 34
25
30
26
5
10
6
7
ol
n
St
bou
te D
9
Su
ffo
l
een
Lag
oon
Waitohi
Domain
22
Dublin St
23
28
Footbridge
Mariners
Mall
Waikawa
Rd
16
17
18
19
31
Wellington St
High St
3
5
20
Buller St
xf
or
d
St
Broadway
29
2
ra
ai
u
Rd
O
Otago St
21
W
Nelson
Square
Durham St
Taranaki St
Scenic
Reserve
6
1
Canterbury St
Lookout
Tiro
hanga Wa
lkwa
y
ra
u
Rd
To Airport (8km);
Skydive the Sounds (8km);
Blenheim (27km)
W
ai
M
ilt
15
4
14
on
Gravesend Pl
W
Tc
London
Quay
aik
a
w
a
4
Qu
Rd
Picton
Su
1
rre
y
St
To Waikawa
Bay Holiday
Park (2km);
St
Bayview
Backpackers (2.5km);
The Lodge (2.5km);
Active Eco Tour (2.6km);
Waikawa Marina (2.6km);
Whatamonga Home
Stay (7.5km)
k
Cha
rlot
Har
e
Newgate St
Waitohi
Auckland St
York St
Kent St
Kent St
Devon St
Devon St
River
en
rd
Ga Tce

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