new-zealand-14-east-coast.pdf

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362
The East Coast
New Zealand is known for its juxtaposition of wildly divergent landscapes but in this region
it’s the sociological contours that are most pronounced. From the remote villages of East Cape
to Havelock North’s prosperous, wine-stained streets, the East Coast condenses a wide range
of authentic Kiwi experiences that anyone with a passion for culture will find fascinating.
If you’re the intrepid sort, you’ll quickly lose the tourist hordes along the Pacific Coast
Hwy, on the back roads and obscure beaches of Central Hawkes Bay, or in the mystical
wilderness of Te Urewera National Park. When the feral urge wanes, a decent coffee and a
slap-up meal is never far away in the urbane confines of Gisborne and Napier.
Authentic Maori culture is never more visible than on the East Coast. It’s probably the
only place in the country where exquisitely carved
marae
(p59) outnumber McDonalds, KFC
and Starbucks outlets combined. The locals may not be wearing flax skirts and swinging
poi
(flax balls on strings) like they do for the tourists in Rotorua, but you can be assured that
Maori language and
tikanga
(practices) are alive and well.
While you are guaranteed a cold beer in any of the local pubs, wine is king here. Gisborne
and Hawkes Bay strain under the weight of tonnes of grapes. If the weather conspires to
drive you off the beaches, lazy days can be cheerfully spent mooching around vineyards,
lingering in cafés or exploring the region’s museums and architecture.
HIGHLIGHTS
THE EAST COAST
Time warping to the 1930s amidst the Art-
Deco delights of
Napier
(p383) and
Hast-
ings
(p390)
Avoiding being the designated driver as
you embark on a grand winetasting tour
of
Gisborne
(p372) or
Hawkes Bay
(p392)
vineyards
Meeting with Maori culture in the hidden
nooks of
East Cape
(opposite) and
Te
Urewera National Park
(p377)
Beach-hopping between secluded gems
such as
Maraehako Bay
(p366),
Tokomaru
Bay
(p367),
Anarua Bay, Waimarama
(p390),
Mangakuri
and
Aramoana
(p396)
Searching for wood nymphs amongst the
magical forest paths of
Eastwoodhill Arbo-
retum
(p371)
TELEPHONE CODE: 07 & 06
www.hawkesbaynz.com
Maraehako Bay
East Cape
Tokomaru Bay
Anarua Bay
Eastwoodhill
Arboretum
Gisborne
Te Urewera
National Park
Hawkes Bay
Napier
Hastings
Ocean Beach
Waimarama
Mangakuri
Aramoana
www.gisbornenz.com
lonelyplanet.com
E A S T C A P E • • Pa c i f i c C o a s t H w y
363
Climate
The East Coast basks in a warm, dry climate.
Summer temperatures around Napier and
Gisborne nudge 25°C, rarely dipping below
5°C in winter. The Hawkes Bay region also
suns itself in mild, dry grape-growing con-
ditions, with an average annual rainfall of
800mm. Heavy downpours sometimes wash
out sections of the Pacific Coast Hwy (SH35)
around the Cape.
THE EAST COAST FACTS
Eat
Macadamia and manuka honey icecream at
Pacific Coast Macadamias (p366)
Read
Witi Ihimaera’s
Bulibasha
(1994)
Listen to
An aging megastar at the annual Mis-
Getting There & Around
The region’s only airports are in Gisborne and
Napier. Air New Zealand flies to both from
Auckland and Wellington, and also to Napier
from Christchurch. Sunair connects Gisborne
to Hamilton, Tauranga, Rotorua and Napier,
and also Napier to Hamilton.
Regular bus services ply SH2 and SH5, con-
necting Gisborne, Wairoa, Napier, Hastings
and Waipukurau with all the main centres.
Transport is much more limited around
East Cape (right) and Te Urewera National
Park (p380).
sion Concert (p386)
Watch
Whale Rider
(2002), then take the tour (p373)
Swim at
Tokomaru Bay (p367)
Festival
Art-Deco Weekend in Napier and Hast-
ings (p386)
Tackiest tourist attraction
Napier’s
Pania of
the Reef
statue (p383)
Go green
Knapdale Eco Lodge (p374)
tured with tiny inlets that change aspect with
the weather. On sunny days the sea is shim-
mering turquoise; at other times clouds brood
on craggy slopes and everything shifts to misty
green. Clear mountain rivers surge through
steep gorges, while the summer seashore turns
crimson with pohutukawa blooms.
Getting Around
Unless you’re behind the wheel, transport
around East Cape can be ponderous, espe-
cially on weekends, but couriers regularly link
Opotiki with Gisborne via Hicks Bay.
Coastal View Couriers
(
%
06-864 4654)
runs
between Opotiki and Hicks Bay ($40, three
hours, 2pm from Opotiki, 6.30am from Hicks
Bay, Monday to Friday).
Polly’s Passenger
Couriers
(
%
06-864 4728)
continues from here to
Gisborne ($40, 3�½ hours, 6.30am from Hicks
Bay, 1pm from Gisborne, Monday to Friday).
Cook’s Couriers
(
%
06-864 4711)
covers the same
route ($40, 3�½ hours, 7.30am from Hicks Bay,
2pm from Gisborne, Monday to Saturday).
An alternative is
Kiwi Experience
(
%
09-366
9830; www.kiwiexperience.com; $340)
, which runs the
four-day ‘East As’ backpacker bus leaving
from Taupo or Rotorua.
EAST CAPE
Nowhere else in NZ is remotely like the gor-
geous, detached East Cape. Maori community
life is at the forefront here, with each stunning
bay hiding a remote
marae
and village. It’s a
fascinating illustration of what might have
been if the Maori weren’t so vigorously di-
vested of their land in the 19th century and the
flood of British settlers had been moderated.
The pace of life is markedly slower here –
everyone seems to know everyone else and
life is rurally wound-down. It’s not unusual
to see horses tethered by the roadside as their
owners go about their daily affairs. The inte-
rior remains wild, with the Raukumara Range
forming the Cape’s jagged spine.
Lining the coastline is the Pacific Coast
Hwy (SH35), 330km of curvilinear asphalt
that took decades to sculpt. The drive presents
some stupendous views: bleak, postapocalyp-
tic shores strewn with driftwood and punc-
TELEPHONE CODES
The telephone area code from Opotiki east
to Hicks Bay, just before East Cape itself, is
%
07. The rest of the region is
%
06.
THE EAST COAST
PACIFIC COAST HWY
NZ’s not short on awesome drives, but few
beat the coast-hugging SH35 as it loops
around the country’s eastern fringe. You’re
not going to get anywhere quickly on this
route but that’s hardly the point. While it
can be done in a solid six hours, you’ll enjoy
it more if you split up the journey and linger
along the way. If you haven’t got time to enjoy
the entire coastal road this time around, don’t
despair. The shorter route between Opotiki
364
E A S T C A P E • • Pa c i f i c C o a s t H w y
g
lonelyplanet.com
THE EAST COAST
2
0
0
50 km
30 miles
5
2
Kaingaroa
Forest
38
Matawai
Whatatutu
Murupara
Te Urewera
National Park
Ra
Hicks Bay
Waihau Bay
Hicks Bay
Whangaokeno
Papatea Bay
Waikuru
Te Araroa
Island
Raukokore
Whanarua Bay
Valley
29
K
e
Maraehako Bay
Bay of Plenty
r
e
u
R
v
Pukehina Beach
Te Puke
Te Kaha
East
Maungaroa
Omaio
Motuhora
Cape
Access Rd
Tikitiki
M
(Whale Island)
33
2
otu
Raukumara
Whakatane
35
Forest Park Mt Hikurangi
Airfield
Ohope Waiotahi
Lake
Rotoehu
Edgecumbe
Lake
Hawai
(1752m)
Ruatoria
Forest
Beach Beach
Torere
Rotorua
Rotoiti
Whakatane
Opape
5
30
35
Waiaua
Opotiki
ver
Ri
Waipiro Bay
River
Kawerau
Rotorua
Mamaku
ata
M
Airfield
Te Puia Springs
Rotorua
Toatoa
Tokomaru Bay
Tarawera
Urutawa
30
Forest
Forest
Waioeka Gorge
Lake
Scenic Reserve
Motu
Tarawera
Wairata
Anaura Bay
Mt Maunganui
Motiti Island
Mt Maunganui Beach
Tauranga Airport
Tauranga
Papamoa Beach
Whakaari
(White Island)
Cape Runaway
Whangaparaoa Bay
Lottin Point
uk
um
a
ra
Ra
ng
e
Ri
v
e
r
tu
Mo d
Old ach R
Co
Wa
io
e
ka
e
Rere
Rockslide
Eastwoodhill
Waipaoa
Arboretum
Maungapohatu
Ormond
Whangara
Rere Falls
(1366m)
Gisborne
Waik
a
t
Te Tapuwae o
Patutahi
Airport
Minginui
Gentle Annie
Pouaka Bay
a
r
o
a
Taupo
Rongokako Marine
Hill
Gisborne
Whirinaki
Tatapouri Beach
Reserve
Forest Park
Manutuke
Hangaroa
Taupo
Wainui Beach Makorori
Aniwaniwa
Doneraille Park
Airport
Tuahine Point
Beach
See Lake Waikaremoana
1
Tiniroto
Tuai
Te Reinga
2
Young
Poverty Bay
Track Map (p380)
Lake
Lake
Falls
Nick's Head
Te Reinga
Waikaremoana
Marumaru
36
Taupo
Bartletts
Wharerata
5
State Forest
Frasertown
Tarawera
Morere
Boundary
Whakaki
Stream
Mahunga Beach
M
Wairoa
Reserve
Mangawhio Lagoon
oh
Nuhaka
Te
Putorino
ak
Mahia
Mohaka
Haroto
a
Table Cape
Lake
Opouahi Scenic Reserve
Whakaki
Mahia Beach
Riv
er
Waikari Rv
Lagoon
Tutira
Mahia Peninsula
Te Pohue
Tutira
Kaweka J
Waipatiki Scenic Reserve
(1724m) White Pine Bush
Arapaoanui Rv
Hawke Bay
Kaweka Scenic Reserve
Tangoio
Portland Island
Tangoio Falls Scenic Reserve
Forest Park
Rv
iR
irin
aki
Rv
Te Whaiti
Ruatahuna
o
v
Ra
ng
Whakatane River
Rv
Te Karaka
Tolaga Bay
Cooks Cove
Walkway
Waihau Beach
g
an
er
H
Riv
aik
ng
it
Ra
Wh
Kuripapango
T
Hu
ri R
Airport
Napier
ive
Otamauri
r
Taradale
Ng
aru
Omahu Clive Haumoana
ror
o R
Flaxmere
Clifton
v
Cape Kidnappers
Hastings
uta
eku
Eskdale
Napier
Bay View
THE EAST COAST
Ruahine
Forest Park
Tikokino
Ongaonga
Takapau
Norsewood
2
50
2
Havelock North
Te Mata
Peak (399m)
Pukehou
Otane
Waipawa
Waipukurau
Ocean Beach
Ocean Beach
Waimarama
Waimarama Beach
iar
au
i
Ah
m
ge
an
er
a R
Riv
aw
ia
an
Rip
To Wellington
(194km)
Dannevirke
Mangaorapa
and Gisborne (144km) follows SH2 through
native bush along the stunning Waioeka
Gorge before spilling out into picturesque
orchards and vineyards.
Before you hit the road, collect the free
Pacific Coast Hwy
booklet from the Opotiki
or Gisborne i-SITE. Don’t forget to fill up
the petrol tank and stock up on snacks and
k
we
Ka
aR
ge
an
Taruarau
River
See Hawkes Bay
Map (p378)
SOUTH PACIFIC
OCEAN
Kairakau Beach
Mangakuri Beach
Pourerere
Aramoana Beach
Blackhead
Te Angiangi
Marine Reserve
Beach
Wanstead
Porangahau
Taumatawhakatangihangakoauauotamateaturipukakapikimaungahoronukupokaiwhenuakitanatahu
(305m)
Cape Turnagain
groceries as retailers are in short supply along
the way. As sleeping and eating options are
so spread out, we’ve listed them in the order
you’ll find them.
Opotiki to Te Kaha
The first leg offers hazy views across to
Whakaari (White Island; p357), a chain-
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
E A S T C A P E • • Pa c i f i c C o a s t H w y
365
MAORI NZ: THE EAST COAST
The main
iwi
(tribes) in the region are Te Whanau-a-Apanui (west side of East Cape), Ngati Porou
(east side of East Cape), Ngati Kahungunu (the coast from Hawkes Bay down) and Tuhoe (inland
in Te Urewera).
Ngati Porou and Ngati Kahungunu are the country’s second and third biggest
iwi.
In the late
19th century they produced the great leaders James Carroll (the first Maori cabinet minister) and
Apirana Ngata (who was briefly acting Prime Minister). Ngata, whose face adorns the $50 bill,
worked tirelessly in Parliament to orchestrate a cultural revival within Maoridom. The region’s
magnificent carved meeting houses are part of his legacy.
Many opportunities exist to interact with Maori culture while you’re in the region. For accom-
modation around East Cape with a distinctly Maori flavour, consider Te Kaha Homestead Lodge
(below), Maraehako Bay Retreat (p366), Mel’s Place (p366) and Eastender Backpackers (p367).
There are plenty of excellent tours offering an intimate introduction to
Maoritanga
(things
Maori). Try the Ngati Porou Visitor’s Centre (p367), Motu River Jet Boat Tours (below), Whale Rider
Tour (p373), Tipuna Tours (p373), Hawkes Bay Maori Tourism (p383), Long Island Tours (p390) or
Hikoitangi Iti (p396). Te Aute College (p396) welcomes visitors but you’ll need to call ahead.
The Urewera region has a long and proud history of resistance to colonisation: start your inves-
tigations at Aniwaniwa (p378) and if you have time, visit the unique communities at Ruatahuna
and Maungapohatu (p377).
For a more passive brush with the culture, visit Gisborne’s Tairawhiti Museum (p372), Napier’s
Hawkes Bay Museum (p383) and Otatara Pa (p384), and Tikitiki’s St Mary’s Church (p367). Throughout
the text we’ve listed interesting
marae
that can be admired from the street.
smoking active volcano. The desolate beaches
at
Torere, Hawai
and
Omaio
are steeply shelved
and littered with ocean detritus. Check out the
magnificent
whakairo
(carving) on the Torere
school gateway. Hawai marks the boundary of
the Whanau-a-Apanui tribe whose
rohe
(tra-
ditional land) extends to Cape Runaway.
About 42km east of Opotiki the road
crosses the broad pebbly expanse of the
Motu
River,
the first river in NZ to be designated as
a protected wilderness area. Action seekers
head here for back-to-nature rafting and jet-
boating adventures.
Wet ‘n’ Wild Rafting
(
%
0800
462 7238; www.wetnwildrafting.co.nz; 2-5 days $750-875)
of-
fers multiple day excursions, with the longest
taking you 100km down the river. The river
is so remote that the two-day tour requires
you to be helicoptered in, therefore costing
almost as much as the five-day trip.
Motu River
Jet Boat Tours
(
%
07-325 2735; www.motujet.co.nz; 1hr
trips $85)
include an ecological and historical
commentary from a Maori perspective.
Twenty-five kilometres further along, the
fishing town of
Te Kaha
once sounded the
death knell for passing whales. There’s a store
here and accommodation options. At the time
of research the local pub was expanding into
a luxury resort with an upmarket restaurant.
From the roadside you get a decent view of
the sublimely carved Tukaki
marae.
SLEEPING
Te Kaha Homestead Lodge
(
%
07-325 2194; fax 07-
325 2193; SH35; dm/s/tw/d $30/40/60/80)
Affable and
big-hearted, this waterfront hostel perches
amongst archaic pohutukawa trees with spa
views to White Island. The accommodation
is basic but the enthusiastic owner organises
fishing trips ($80 per hour) and bursts into
choruses of ‘Welcome to the Homestead at Te
Kaha’ (to the tune of
Hotel California)
given
the slightest provocation.
Tui Lodge
(
%
/fax 07-325 2922; jorex@xtra.co.nz;
Copenhagen Rd, Te Kaha; s/d $125/150;
p
)
This ca-
pacious, modern guesthouse sits on three
leafy acres irresistible to tui (parson birds).
Breakfast is included but dinner is by ar-
rangement; horse trekking, fishing and diving
jaunts are also on the cards.
Te Kaha Holiday Park
(
%
07-325 2894; www
.tekahaholidaypark.co.nz; SH35; sites per adult/child $12/7,
dm $20, d $78-105;
pi
)
From tent patches to
THE EAST COAST
self-contained motels, this beautifully main-
tained,
hapu
(subtribe)-run holiday park is
all-things-to-all-visitors. Just 300m from the
beach, there’s a tumult of oceanic activities,
an excellent café (breakfast $5 to $12) and a
general store.
Maungaroa Station
(
%
07-325 2727; www.maun
garoa.co.nz; Maungaroa Access Rd; sites per person $10, dm
$20;
p
)
This remote Raukumara Ranges lodge
366
E A S T C A P E • • Pa c i f i c C o a s t H w y
Book your stay at lonelyplanet.com/hotels
requires a 45-minute drive up a dirt road (off
Copenhagen Rd) and two river crossings to
reach. Bunk down in the self-contained cot-
tage (sleeps eight in four bedrooms) or camp
outside; dunk yourself in the Kereu River, hug
a tree or saddle-up for a horse trek (one- to
four-hours, $35 to $65).
Te Kaha to Cape Runaway
A succession of sleepy bays follows. At
Papatea Bay
stop to admire the unusual gates
of
Hinemahuru marae,
carved with images of
WWI Maori Battalion soldiers. Nearby
Christ
Church Raukokore
(1894) is an immaculately
maintained beacon of belief on a lonely prom-
ontory.
Waihau Bay
has an all-in-one petrol
station/post office/store/takeaway at its west-
ern end, alongside the pub. There’s another
store/takeaway attached to the holiday park
at the centre of the beach.
Cape Runaway,
where
kumara was first introduced to NZ, can only
be reached on foot.
SLEEPING & EATING
is offered but clean toilets, water for boiling
and beachfront nirvana. Toddlers will adore
splashing about in the clear stream.
Oceanside Apartments
(
%
07-325 3699; www
.waihaubay.co.nz; 10932 SH35; d $100-120)
These nicely
kept apartments on a sandy stretch of Waihau
Bay comfortably accommodate up to eight
slumberers (add $20 per extra bod). Fishing
charters ($65), cooked breakfasts and picnic
lunches are available.
Cape Runaway to East Cape
The road heads inland from Whangaparaoa,
crossing into Ngati Porou territory before
hitting the coast at
Hicks Bay,
a real middle-of-
nowhere town with a fabulous beach.
Nearly 10km further is
Te Araroa,
a lone-dog
village with a shop, pub, takeaway and beauti-
fully carved
marae.
The geology changes here
from igneous outcrops to sandstone cliffs.
More than 350 years old with 22 trunks and
40m boughs, Te-Waha-O-Rerekohu, allegedly
NZ’s largest pohutukawa tree, stands in the
Te Araroa schoolyard. The progressive
East
Cape Manuka Company
(
%
0508 626 852; www.east
capemanuka.co.nz; 4464 Te Araroa Rd;
h
9am-4.30pm daily
Nov-Mar, Mon-Fri Apr-Oct)
is also here, selling soaps,
Waikawa B&B
(
%
07-325 2070; www.waikawa.net; 7541
SH35; d $120-130;
p
)
Towards Whanarua Bay,
this magical B&B on a private rocky cove
looks like manicured driftwood crossed with
buried treasure, blending weathered timber,
corrugated iron and paua inlay. The three-
bedroom self-contained bach (holiday house;
$150) is perfect for groups.
Pacific Coast Macadamias
(
%
07-325 2960; SH35,
Whanarua Bay; snacks $5-8;
h
10am-3pm)
Heaven is
a tub of home-made macadamia and honey
ice cream, accompanied by views along one
of the most spectacular parts of the coast.
Paninis, toasted sandwiches and nutty fudges
and slices make this a great lunch stop.
Maraehako Bay Retreat
(
%
07-325 2648; www
.maraehako.co.nz; SH35; dm/s/d $28/43/66;
pi
)
With
absolute waterfront, this paradisaical hostel
owes more than a little to Robinson Crusoe
– although he probably didn’t have a spa pool
under the stars ($5 extra). Seemingly cobbled
together from flotsam and jetsam, it’ll make
you want to grow a beard and trace SOS mes-
sages in the sand. The
hapu
offers a range of
cultural experiences, including
marae
tours,
guided walks, horse treks, boat trips and the
opportunity to watch traditional carvers at
work. Kayaks are free.
Maraehako Camping Ground
(
%
07-325 2047;
SH35; sites per adult/child $9/5;
p
)
Run by the same
hapu
as the neighbouring hostel, not much
oils, creams and honey made from potent East
Cape manuka. Stop for coffee and
kai
(food).
From Te Araroa, drive out to see the sunrise
at the
East Cape Lighthouse,
the easterly tip of
mainland NZ. It’s 21km (30 minutes) east
of town along an unsealed road, with a 25-
minute climb to the lighthouse.
SLEEPING & EATING
THE EAST COAST
It’s a long way between drinks (or anything
else) on this leg.
Mel’s Place
(
%
06-864 4694; www.eastcapefishing.co.nz;
89 Onepoto Beach Rd, Hicks Bay; sites per person/dm $15/25)
On an ancestral
pa
(fortified village) site, Mel
manages this busy hostel with aplomb. The
campsites have wicked bay views (bring your
own cooking gear) and there’s a smart self-
contained caravan by the beach ($65). Maori
cultural tours and fishing trips can be tailored
to your requirements. If you’re dog-phobic,
look elsewhere.
Hicks Bay Motel Lodge
(
%
06-864 4880; www.hicks
baymotel.co.nz; 5198 SH35; d $110-135;
sp
)
Brilliant
views distract from the barrack ambience at
this sprawling motel above Hicks Bay. The
old-fashioned rooms are nothing flash; the
restaurant, pool and glowworm grotto are
some compensation.

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