indonesia-10-kalimantan.pdf

(2878 KB) Pobierz
Indonesia
Kalimantan
(Chapter)
Edition
10th Edition, May 2013
Pages
50
Page Range
583-632
PDF
Coverage includes:
East Kalimantan, Balikpapan, Samarinda, Sungai Mahakam,
The Muller Mountains, Kutai National Park, Wehea Forest, Berau, Derawan
Archipelago, North Kalimantan, West Kalimantan, Pontianak, Sukadana, Sungai
Kapuas, Central Kalimantan, Tanjung Puting National Park, Kumai, Pangkalan Bun,
Palangka Raya, South Kalimantan, Banjarmasin, Kandangan, Negara, Loksado.
Useful Links:
Having trouble viewing your file?
Head to
Lonely Planet Troubleshooting.
Need more assistance?
Head to the
Help and Support page.
Want to find more chapters?
Head back to the
Lonely Planet Shop.
Want to hear fellow travellers’ tips and experiences?
Lonely Planet’s Thorntree Community
is waiting for you!
© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In
return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload
this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site
for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Kalimantan
POP 13,800,000
Why Go?
Balikpapan ....................588
Samarinda .................... 593
Sungai Mahakam ..........596
Wehea Forest ................605
Berau .............................606
Derawan Archipelago ...607
Pontianak ...................... 610
Sukadana ...................... 616
Sungai Kapuas ...............617
Central Kalimantan ...... 619
Tanjung Puting
National Park ................ 619
Pangkalan Bun ..............623
Palangka Raya ..............624
Banjarmasin ................. 627
Loksado......................... 631
If jungle rivers get your blood running, then be prepared
for rapids. Occupying three-quarters of Borneo, the world’s
third-largest island Kalimantan harbours a vast and legen-
dary jungle cut by countless rivers, including two around
1000km in length. Within this primordial puzzle something
extraordinary always lies around the next bend. You’ll en-
counter exotic wildlife, such as the unforgettable orangutan,
mysterious Dayak villages with only one foot in the modern
world, and pure boating thrills. Adventure travellers of all
levels can participate, from novices enjoying the romantic
k
klotok
(canoes) of Tanjung Puting to hardened trekkers
shooting rapids on the landmark Cross-Borneo Trek. Divers
will revel in the Derawan Archipelago, a world-class under-
water destination. Cities here are mostly transit points, and
foreigners exceedingly rare, but locals everywhere will greet
you with a cheerful ‘Hey Mistah!’, making travel a tropical
breeze.
When to Go
Best Jungle River
Pontianak
Journeys
°C/°F
Temp
»
Sungai Bungan (p618)
»
Sungai Mahakam (p596)
»
Sungai Sekonyer (p619)
40/104
30/86
20/68
Rainfall
inches/mm
20/500
16/400
12/300
8/200
Best Places to
Stay
»
Nunukan Island Resort
10/50
-0/32
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D
4/100
0
(p609)
»
Wisma Alya (p632)
»
Wehea Forest Lodge
(p605)
»
Hotel Gran Senyiur (p590)
Jan–Feb
Rough
weather limits
diving trips in the
Derawan Archi-
pelago.
Feb–Apr
Bloom-
ing fruit brings
orangutans into
view.
Aug–Sep
Dry
season makes
roads better,
skies clearer.
584
Kalimantan
Highlights
1
Completing the
0
0
200 km
100 miles
landmark
Cross-
Borneo Trek
(p587)
– if you can
2
Meeting the
orangutans of
Tanjung Puting
National Park
(p619)
SOUTH
CHINA
SEA
Pulau
Natuna
3
Travelling up
Sungai Mahakam
(p596)– and into the
past
4
Living the
5
Exploring
Pulau
Lagong
K ALIMANTAN
K ALIMANTAN
K ALIMANTAN
(inexpensive) high life
in
Balikpapan
(p588)
the
Derawan
Archipelago
(p607),
both under water and
above
Pulau
Subi Besar
6
Settling into
village life in lovely
Loksado
(p631)
Kahayan
aboard the
luxurious
Rahai’i
Pangun
(p626)
Teluk
Datu
Sibu
7
Cruising
Sungai
Kuching
Sambas
Tebedu
Singkawang
Entikong
Danau
Sentarum
National Park
8
Ascending
the tower of the
extraordinary
Islamic
Centre of Samarinda
(p593)
Wehea Forest
(p605): the Earth as
it used to be
n
Su
Equator
Pontianak
Sanggau
i
ga
uas
Kap
Sintang
9
Hiking unspoiled
Pulau
Padangtikar
Sukadana
Su
ng
ai
Pulau
Maya
Pulau
Karimata
Ka
s
pua
WEST
KALIMANTAN
Gunung Palung
National Park
Gunung Palung
(1116m)
Ketapang
Bukit Baka
(1617m)
Teluk
Sukadana
CENTRAL
KALIMANTAN
Riam
Pangkalan
Bun
Kumai
Sukamara
Tanjung Puting
National Park
JAVA SEA
585
Kota
Kinabalu
Sandakan
BANDAR SERI
BEGAWAN
SABAH
BRUNEI
Sebuku Sembakung
National Park
Long
Bawan
Tawau
Nunukan
K ALIMANTAN
Sulawesi
Sea
NORTH
KALIMANTAN
Tanjung
Selor
Tarakan
MALAYSIA
Ap
oka
Hig
hla
nds
yan
Kayan
Mentarang
National Park
Pulau
Derawan
Tanjung
Batu
SARAWAK
a
n
Sungai
Betung
Kerihun
National Park
Cross-Borneo
Trek
Tiong
Ohang
Long
Bagun
Sungai Mahakam
K
a
y
EAST
KALIMANTAN
Berau
Berau
Derawan
Archipelago
Pulau
Maratua
Pulau
Sangalaki
Pulau
Kakaban
Wehea Forest
Muara
Wahau
Sungai
Putussibau
Kutai
National
Park
Sangkulirang
Sangatta
M
ai
n
g
Su ak
am
ah
Tering
Melak
Tanjung Isuy
Be
la
ya
n
Muaru
Pahu
Bontang
Muaru
Muntai
Kota Bangun
Tenggarong
Bukit Raya
(2278m)
Tewah
Jantur
Samarinda
Barito
Bukit Baka–
Bukit Raya
National Park
Muara
Teweh
Mancong
Balikpapan
Panajam
Palangka Raya
Sampit
Sebangau
National
Park
Kuala Kapuas
Amuntai
Barabai
Negara
Loksado
Pegunungan
Meratus
Kandangan
Sungai
Tanahgrogot
Banjarmasin
Banjarbaru
SOUTH
KALIMANTAN
Martapura
Cempaka
Kota Baru
Sel
at
Ma
Sungai
Kahayan
kas
sar
Su
ngai
K
ah
ay
an
Pulau
Sebuku
Pulau
Laut
SULAWESI
5 86
History & Culture
Separated from Southeast Asia’s mainland
10,000 years ago by rising seas, Kaliman-
tan was originally populated by the Dayaks,
who still define its public image. The culture
of this jungle people included headhunt-
ing, extensive tattooing, stretched earlobes,
blowguns and longhouses – horizontal
apartment buildings big enough to house an
entire village. That culture has been slowly
dismantled by the modern world, such that
some elements, such as headhunting (thank-
fully), no longer exist, while others are in
various stages of disappearing. Tribal iden-
tity persists, but many Dayaks have either
abandoned their traditional folk religion,
Kaharingan, or combined it with Christian-
ity (or Islam).
In addition to the Dayaks, Kalimantan
contains two other large ethnic groups, Chi-
nese and Malay. The Chinese are the region’s
most successful merchants, having traded
in Kalimantan since at least 300BC. They’re
responsible for the bright-red Confucian
temples found in many port towns, and a
profusion of Chinese restaurants, some of
Kalimantan’s best dining. The Malays are
predominantly Muslim, a religion that ar-
rived with the Melaka empire in the 15th
century. Their most obvious presence is the
grand mosques in major cities and towns,
along with the call to prayer. Several palaces
of Muslim sultans, who came to power after
the Melaka fell to Portugal, can still be vis-
ited as well.
Since colonial times, Kalimantan has also
been a destination for
transmigrasi,
the re-
location of people from more densely popu-
lated areas of the archipelago. A sure sign is
a small town of identical huts laid out in a
grid. This and an influx of jobseekers from
throughout Indonesia has led to some con-
flict, most notably a year-long struggle be-
tween Dayaks and Madurese (people from
the island of Madura) in 2001, which killed
500 people, and a smaller conflict in 2010
between Dayaks and Bugis in Tarakan.
Most of the struggle in Kalimantan, how-
ever, has taken place over its bountiful natu-
ral resources, and involved foreign powers.
Oil, rubber, spices, timber, coal, diamonds
and gold have all been pawns on the board,
causing many years of intrigue between
British and Dutch colonial interests. During
World War II oil and other resources made
Borneo an early target for Japan, leading to
a brutal occupation, in which some 21,000
people were murdered in West Kalimantan
alone. In 1963, Indonesian President Su-
karno led a failed attempt to take over all
Borneo by staging attacks on the Malaysian
north. According to Dayaks near the border
‘over 1000 men fell to the dart’.
Today the struggle for Kalimantan’s re-
sources is more insidious. As one watches
the endless series of enormous coal barges
proceeding down rivers lined with tin-roof
shacks, there is the constant sense of an
ongoing plunder in which the local people
benefit little, outmanoeuvered by a shadowy
collection of foreign businessmen and local
government officials overseen from Jakarta.
Meanwhile, as palm-oil plantations spread
across the landscape, the great Bornean
jungle recedes, never to return. Numerous
conservation groups are struggling to halt
the social and environmental damage, and
to save some remarkable wildlife. Best to
visit soon.
Wildlife
K ALIMANTAN
K ALIMANTAN
K ALIMANTAN
Much of the same flora and fauna is found
throughout Kalimantan. The region is best
known for its orangutans, Asia’s only great
ape, and a most impressive sight, particu-
larly given their endearing human qualities.
These are best seen at rehabilitation centres,
including Tanjung Puting and Orangutan
Island on the Kahayan River. River cruis-
ing commonly reveals long-nosed proboscis
monkeys (unique to Borneo), macaques,
gibbons, crocodiles (including gharials),
monitor lizards and pythons. Hornbills are
commonly seen flying overhead, and are a
spiritual symbol for many Dayaks; the up-
turned rooflines of local buildings mimic
their wings. Forests harbour the rare cloud-
ed leopard, sun bear, giant moths and mil-
lipedes, and tarantulas. For divers, the De-
rawan Archipelago is renowned for its sea
turtles, manta rays and large pelagic fish.
8
Getting There & Away
The only entry points to Kalimantan that issue
visas on arrival are Balikpapan’s Sepinggan
Airport, Pontianak’s Supadio Airport and the
Tebedu–Entikong land crossing between Kuch-
ing (Sarawak) and Pontianak. All other entries
from outside Indonesia – by land, sea or air –
require a visa issued in advance.
AIR
There are no direct
fl
ights from Europe or
the Americas to Kalimantan. The major cities are
reached via Jakarta. See individual city sections
for airline options.
For European travellers, a good strategy is to
combine a round-trip ticket to Kuala Lumpur

Plik z chomika:

Inne pliki z tego folderu:

Inne foldery tego chomika:

Zgłoś jeśli naruszono regulamin