Bally Pinball 1977-85 Repair Part 3.pdf

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Repairing Bally Electronic Pinball Games
from 1977 to 1985, Part Three.
by
cfh@provide.net,
04/02/11.
Copyright 1999-2011, all rights reserved.
Scope.
This document is a repair guide for Bally electronic pinball games made from 1977 to
1985. Since
Stern
electronic pinball games use nearly identical electronics, these games
are covered too.
Internet Availability of this Document.
Updates of this document are available for no cost at
http://pinrepair.com/fix.htm
if you
have Internet access.
This document is part three of three
(part one is
here,
and part
two is
here).
IMPORTANT: Before Starting!
IF YOU HAVE NO EXPERIENCE IN CIRCUIT BOARD REPAIR, YOU SHOULD NOT TRY
TO FIX YOUR OWN PINBALL GAME!
Before you start any pinball circuit board repair,
review the document at
http://pinrepair.com/begin,
which goes over the basics of circuit
board repair. Since these pinball repair documents have been available, repair facilities
are reporting a dramatic increase in the number of ruined ("hacked") circuit boards sent
in for repair.
Most repair facilities will NOT repair your circuit board after it has been
unsuccessfully repaired ("hacked").
If you aren't up to repairing pinball circuit boards yourself or need pinball parts or just
want to buy a restored game, I recommend seeing the
suggested parts & repair sources
web page.
Table of Contents
1.
Getting Started:
a.
Experience, Schematics, Manuals
b.
Necessary Tools
c.
Parts to have On-Hand
d.
Game List
e.
Lubrication Notes
f.
The Circuit Boards
g.
Voltage Test Points on the Boards
h.
Fuse Values/Usage & Power Supply Power Distribution
2.
Before Turning the Game On:
a.
b.
c.
d.
e.
f.
g.
h.
Check the Coil Resistance
Removing the MPU Battery and Fixing Corrosion
The Power Supply/Regulator Board - Blown Fuses, Bridges, etc.
Upgrading/Repairing the Voltage Regulator/Solenoid Driver Board
Upgrading the Ground on the MPU Board
Pre Power-On Voltage Checks
Connectors
Setting Free Play
3.
When Things Don't Work:
a.
b.
c.
d.
e.
f.
g.
h.
i.
j.
k.
l.
m.
n.
o.
p.
Making a MPU test fixture
Fixing the MPU (LED flashes and the such)
Test EPROM & Fixing a Dead MPU board
Game ROMs, EPROMs, and Jumper - the Basics
-35 MPU Game ROMs, EPROMs, and Jumpers
-17 MPU Game ROMs, EPROMs, and Jumpers
Stern M-200 MPU Jumpers (using a Stern M-200 in a Bally Game)
Converting a -133 MPU (Baby Pacman) to a -35 MPU
The Built-In Diagnostics/Bookkeeping
Coils: Locked-on, Sporadic, or Not Working (Solenoid Driver board) including
Flipper Coils
Lamps: Locked-on or Not Working Feature Lamps (Lamp Driver board)
Solenoid Expander Board Problems
Auxiliary Lamp Driver Board Problems
Switches and the Switch Matrix
High Voltage Problems/Rebuild (No Score Display Power)
Score Display Fixes and Replacements
q.
r.
s.
t.
Reset or Lockup Power Problems
Sound Board Problems
Flipper Maintenance
Miscellaneous Problems and Fixes
3e. When things don't work: -35/-133 MPU Game ROMs,
EPROMs, and Jumpers.
Important: Before you Change any Jumpers!!
It is EXTREMELY important that you have a working MPU board
before
you change any
jumper locations! If the MPU board currently has ROMs in it, get it working first before playing
with the jumpers. If the MPU board is jumpered incorrectly for the game ROMs installed, the
diagnostic LED light will stay on, and the board will not power-up. So it is absolutely
important that the jumpers are correct for the ROMs installed. Get the MPU board working
first before proceeding.
Also of course, make sure the board being worked on is a AS-2518-35 (or AS-2518-133) MPU
(remember the -133 is really a -35 board with R113 changed to a diode CR52). The easiest
way to tell (besides looking at the silkscreened part number on the board!) is to examine
connector J5. On a -35/-133 MPU board, J5 will have 33 pins (including the removed "key"
pin).
Max out ROM Memory on the -35/-133 MPU to use 2732 EPROMs.
Jumpering is not a big problem until the MPU's ROM chips begin to fail, and MPU boards are
shifted from game to game. An MPU board can only be jumpered so many times before the
traces and jumpers start to lift and strip off the board. So instead of custom jumpering a
board to a particular set of ROMs, the best idea is to maximize the board to use the largest
EPROM size, and cater the EPROMs themselves to the board (instead of the other way
around).
This really makes sense as the largest EPROMs that will fit the -35/-133 MPU board are
2732's, which are commonly and cheaply available. For this reason, the Bally ROM code has
been re-formated to fit this size EPROM. The original program size and code is still available
from Williams at
www.pinball.com/Williams/tech/roms.html.
But I highly suggest you down
load the ZIP file
bly2732.zip
instead, as it contains all the Bally ROMs for all games from
Freedom (1977) to Cybernaut (1985), and has been converted to 2732 format. Only Baby
Pacman and Granny and the Gators ROMs are missing from this file. Using these files will allow
you to use a -35 MPU board for ANY Bally game from 1977 to 1985. Click
here
for a list of the
ROM files, and which games use which ROMs (note many games share the same U6 ROM).
Text file from Mr. Calahan.
One set of Jumpers for a -35 MPU using 2732 EPROMs.
For the -35/-133 MPU board, using all 2732 for ANY game has the advantage of just one set
of jumpers. Just download the above file and expand it, and burn your game into 2732
EPROMs. Then jumper your -35 MPU board like this:
1. Jump E4 to E13a
2. Jump E12 to GND (large GND trace next to the ROM sockets, left of E12)
3. Jump E7 to E8
4. Jump E10 to E11
5. Jump E31 to E32
6. Jump E16a to E29 (on -133 "E16 to E29")
7. Jump E33 to E35
Note: any jumpers still installed (from the old ROM setup) that are not listed above should be
removed.
Jumpers around the U1 socket, for using two 2732 EPROMs:
Jumpers E4 to E13a (top white wire), E12 to GND (right white wire),
E7 to E8 (middle left), and E10 to E11 (lower right).
Jumpers around the U6 socket, for using two 2732 EPROMs:
E31 to E32, E16a to E29, and E33 to E35.
If you don't want to convert your game to 2732 format, you can also use these jumpers for
other types of ROMs in your -35/-133 MPU board.
Using 2532 EPROMs instead of 9332 Masked ROMs.
If the game in question is a later Bally game with 9332 masked ROMs, these can be changed
to 2532 EPROMs with NO jumper modifications! This can be handy and convenient if the
original black 9332 masked ROMs need changing, but the repair person doesn't want to mess
with the jumpers.
The "Mother" Source for Jumper Info.
All the following jumper information came from several sources. The primary source is, of
course, the original MPU board schematics. There were also two secondary sources too. First
was Williams web site, located at
bally_read1st.txt
which contains all the jumper info you will
probably need. Also Joel Cook's "Pinball Lizard" Tech Tips Guide #1 has this information too. I
highly suggest the Joel Cook "lizard" tech books; they have lots of other good pinball repair
information too. You can buy these from Marco Specialties at
http://www.pinballmachine.com.
Bally -35 MPU Jumpers
U2
ROM
9316
2716
2532
or
9332
2532
or
9332
9316
9316
2716
2716
2716
2716
2716
2732
2732
2532
or
9332
2732
9316
2716
9316
2716
2716
9316
2532
or
9332
2716
2732
U6
ROM
9316
U1
ROM
MPU Board Jumpers in numberic order
Cuts
9316
1-4,2-6,7-8,9-11,12-36,13-15,16a-19,31-32,33-34
2716
1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,16a-18,31-32,33-35
74S474 74S474 2716
1-3,2-6,9-11,12-36,13-15,16a-18,31-32,33-35
4-12, 7-8, 10-11, 13a-14, 16a-34, 29-33, 31-32
cut 13-15
4-12,7-8,10-11,13a-14,16a-29,31-32,33-35
2-6,7-8,9-11,12-36,13-15,16a-19,31-32,33-34
9316
1-4,2-6,7-8,9-11,12-36,13a-19,16a-18,31-32,33-35
cut 13-15
cut 13-15
1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,11-29,13a-14,16a-19,31-32,33-34 cut 13-15
1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,11-29,13a-14,16a-18,31-32,33-35 cut 13-15
2716
1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,11-25,13a-14,16a-18,31-32,33-35 cut 13-15
2716
1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,11-25,13a-14,16a-19,31-32,33-34 cut 13-15
2716
1-5,2-4,7-8,10-12,11-25,13a-14,16a-34,29-33,31-32 cut 13-15
4-13a, 7-8, 10-11, 12-GND, 16a-18, 31-32, 33-35
4-13a, 7-8, 10-11, 12-GND, 16a-29, 31-32, 33-35
cut 13-15
cut 13-15
Cuts
U2
U6
U1
MPU Board Jumpers in numeric order
ROM
ROM ROM
The first three rows of this table are commonly found factory ROM jumpers.
Stuff to remember:
Bally uses a preceding "E" on all jumper numbers. Yes, the "E" has been left out above
to save some space in the chart.
The "dash" between the numbers is the "jump". That is, "1-4" means a jumper from E1
to E4.
Remove any jumpers not shown above for a given configuration. If it's not mentioned
above for your ROM set up, you don't need that jumper!
Don't trust other Bally jumper charts! The above chart is "the one to use" (using Bally
published jumper charts can lead to problems).
You must know the ROM device type installed at each ROM location. The Bally part
number (often printed on the ROM) does not help.
BLACK masked ROMs, as used in many Bally games, are entirely black and usually have
some white part numbers printed on them. These are known as 9316 masked ROMs.
EPROMs, on the other hand, have a small clear "window" on their top, often with a
sticker over the window. The sticker is there for a reason; it prevents UV light from
entering the EPROM's clear window (this is how an EPROM is erased! so keep the
sticker on the window). EPROMs are labeled as to their size (i.e. "2716").
The most common EPROMs used on Bally MPU boards are 2716, 2532 and 2732 EPROMs.
ROMs and EPROMs are game specific. Each game has its own custom set of ROM
computer code, stored on that game's ROMs (or EPROMs).
Some EPROM part numbers are interchangable. For example, 2532 EPROMs, 9332
masked ROMs, and 8332 masked ROMs all use the same jumper setting. But a U2 2532
EPROM from a Kiss game is NOT interchangable with a U2 9332 EPROM from a Strikes
and Spares! This also applies to the 16 bit masked ROMs too. That is, 9316 masked
ROMs, 8316 masked ROMs, and 8516 masked ROMs all use the same jumper settings.
But again a U2 9316 ROM from a Kiss game is NOT interchangable with a U2 8316 ROM
from a Strikes and Spares!
Freedom and Night Rider ROMs and Jumper Notes if using U1,U6.
These two games used a strange set of ROMs at U1 and U2. These are 74S474 or 7461 (512
byte) ROMs at U1 and U2, and a 9316 or 2716 (2K byte) at U6. The old Williams tech web
site at
www.pinball.com
states that a U1 2716 EPROM and a U6 2716 EPROM can be used for
these two games (and provides the ROM files for download, and the jumper settings for the -
35 MPU board).
Note I have also tested both games with 2732 EPROMs at U2 and U6 on a converted -17 and
-35 MPU boards (as documented above). This does in fact work fine for both Freedom and
Night Rider, and is a better solution in my opinion.
E13, E15 Mistaken Jumper Locations.
There are two jumper pads near the lower right hand corner of the U2 ROM socket labeled
"E13" and "E15". There are also two vias (plated through holes) just a little bit further to the
right, which are actually closer to the "E13" and "E15" labels. The vias are completely
unrelated to the labeled jumper pads. Be careful when using these jumpers that you don't
confuse the vias with the jumper pads. They are both round plated through holes, but the
jumper pads are a bit bigger.
3f. When things don't work: -17 MPU Game ROMs, EPROMs, and
Jumpers (and Stern M-100).
Important: Before you Change any Jumpers!!
It is EXTREMELY important that you have a working MPU board
before
you change any
jumper locations! If the MPU board currently has ROMs in it, get it working first before playing
with the jumpers. If the MPU board is jumpered incorrectly for the game ROMs installed, the
diagnostic LED light will stay on, and the board will not power-up. So it is absolutely
important that the jumpers are correct for the ROMs installed. Get the MPU board working
first before proceeding. If the ROMs are suspect as bad, and the MPU board is set up for
9316 ROMs (most -17 boards are), see the section below, "Making an Adapter to use Two
2716 EPROMs in an Unmodified -17 MPU board that is Jumpered for 9316 ROMs". This will
allow the use of two new 2716 EPROMs to replace the failed 9316 ROMs, without any MPU
board modifications or new jumper settings.
Also of course, make sure the board being worked on is a AS-2518-17 MPU. The easiest way
to tell (besides looking at the silkscreened part number on the board!) is to examine
connector J5. On a -17 MPU MPU board, this connector will have 32 pins (including the
removed "key" pin).
Bad MPU Board Sockets ("closed frame" sockets).
If a Bally MPU board is using brown or black closed frame sockets (closed frame means the
circuit board under the socket can not be seen), or sockets that have "SCANBE" or "RS"
impressed on them, it is advised they be changed! These older sockets are very troublesome
and cause many intermittent problems. A quick alternative to replacement is to plug a
machine pin socket into the brown socket. This is a *temporary* fix, but should work well
enough until the board is working, and then later replace the sockets).
A brown and a black closed frame socket.
There's no way around it, ALL these sockets will
need to be replaced on any Bally MPU board.
Because of this, it's highly recommended to
use a single 2732 EPROM at U2 when possible,
so the socket at U6 does not need to be changed.
Jumpers used on the Early -17 MPU (and Stern M-100).
The 1977 to 1979 Bally -17 MPU boards aren't as versatile as the newer -35 boards. They
have limited ROM space, which means they can't be used in the newer 1979 to 1985 games.
This can all be rectified, but will require some cutting and jumping of traces on the -17 MPU
board.
There are only a few jumper choices on the -17 MPU board. The following jumpers only apply
for the early 1977 to 1979 Bally -17 MPU board. Note the configuration that uses a U1 ROM
only existed for the first two Bally games, Freedom and Night Rider.
Bally -17 and Stern M-100 MPU Jumpers
U1
ROM
U2
ROM
U6
ROM
MPU Board
Jumpers
in numeric order
Important Notes
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