My Home-Made Bob Beck Electromagnetic Pulser.pdf

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My Home-Made Bob Beck Electromagnetic Pulser (Thumper)
If you made it to this web page, you most likely have already been researching the Bob Beck
Protocol. If you have no knowledge of electronics and are wanting to build your own pulser, I
recommend thoroughly going over
Chris Gupta's Pulser page
first and then coming back here to fill
in the blanks. Here I offer photographs and additional information that may be of assistance to
anyone wanting to build their own Bob Beck Electromagnetic Pulser.
Bob Beck Protocol Information:
If you would like to learn more about Robert Beck and the Beck
Protocol, you can view several Google Videos by clicking on the following Link -
Beck Video
. You
can also watch the full Video below (1 hour 57 min). Beyond these videos, there is a wealth of
information on the internet about the Bob Beck Protocol. In a nutshell however it implies a four
process system involving blood electrification, electromagnetic pulse, colloidal silver and ozonated
water. If you are experiencing cancer, hiv, lupus, candida or one or more of a host of other ailments,
it would be worth your time to research this health process. Also, you can download the entire Bob
Beck Lecture,
"Take Back Your Power"
(1MB PDF). I have searched hi and low for this and finally
found the complete document.
Suppressed Medical Discovery:
Dr. Robert C. Beck ( Cancer,AIDS, anything viral) - 1:56:59 - Aug 13, 2006
Commercially Manufactured Bob Beck Devices:
If you are looking for a quality blood electrifier
at a fantastic price of only $70, click on the following link (http://photoman.bizland.com/godzilla
/details.htm).
It uses four 9V batteries. Other commercial models may use only a single 9V battery
but can cost up to $200. If you don't want to, or can't build your own blood electrifier, this device
should suffice nicely. I will soon have a web page outlining instructions with photos, to assist those
who want to make their own blood electrifier. In the meantime, you can access the following web site
for a schematic and parts list of Bob Beck's original, improved
Blood Electrifier and Colloidal Silver
Maker
Sota Instruments
manufactures and sells more advanced devices ranging from EM Pulsers to
Ozonating devices and more.
Also see
Tools For Healing.
Some more technical information provided by
Sota Instruments
regarding the construction of
electromagnetic pulsers can be found by clicking on
this link.
My EM Pulser is based on Chris Gupta's circuit design. Chris Gupta's Pulser web site can be
accessed by
clicking on this link.
The information I provide on this web page is an account of what I have learned in the process of
studying Beck devices and building my own units for my own experimentation purposes. I assume
no responsibility for anything one might do with the information provided on this web page. Please
view any explanations as hypothetical and not as instructions to be followed.
Electric Shock Hazard!
This device uses 110V AC current and a bank of capacitors that stores a significant charge. If this
device is not built in a safe manor, there can be a risk of lethal electric shock. It would advisable for
individuals that are unfamiliar with electronics, to
have someone like a TV repairman build this
device for them.
PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE be absolutely present, mindful and cautious when
working around exposed capacitors and 110VAC current. As you will read below, even a shock by a
single capacitor from a disposable camera, can be extremely unpleasant. A professor at Penn
Engineering jokingly recommended that I keep one hand in my pocket. In other words, keeping one
hand in my pocket would prevent an electric shock from going across my heart!
Looking on the bright side however, Chris Gupta told me that many people have successfully built
and are using this device based on his schematic. I'm just asking those that are intending to build this
machine, to use safe practices when working around exposed capacitors and hot electrical wires.
Please post any successes, failures, comments or questions on
Chris Gupta's Pulser web page.
Please take a close look at the photos below before reading on. As I don't provide a lead-in,
reviewing the images will help you to understand what I'm talking about.
All measurements are in Inches.
Plastic Box Outside Dimensions: approximately 2-3/8 X 4-1/4 X 7-3/8
Using 1/2 inch #4 beveled machine screws I fastened a 1/8 inch plexiglas sub-floor to the bottom of
the box in order to allow for the attachment of the Terminal Contact Bars and the home-made bracket
for the SCR. The sub-floor also provides an insulated suface for the circuit components to be
mounted to. Screws were counter sunk into the outside-bottom of the plastic box and fastened on the
inside with a lock washers and nuts. After all components were soldered and attached to the
sub-floor, the sub-floor was then fastened to the ends of the four screws coming up from the bottom
of the box and again fastened with nuts and lock washers.
Looking at Chris Gupta's EM Pulser circuit, keep in mind that the On/Off switch is on the positive
side of the circuit. The negative side goes to the bulbs, 150V / 130uF capacitor and ultimately to the
Anode of the SCR. In electrical circuits, generally it is always the hot lead (+) that is switched. I'm
not really sure if input polarity makes a difference in this circuit, but that is how I did it.
Note: I have since modified my pulser by adding three contact bars to strengthen, simplify and
clean-up the solder points for the 150V / 130uF capacitor, two diodes and the resistor. I also added
two more photo-flash capacitors to the five shown in the diagram. According to Chris Gupta's
calculations the array of 7 capacitors now store about 41 joules (Watt/Seconds) of energy and will
produce a magnetic pulse of around ~6,000 gauss from the surface of the coil.
I used 14 gage solid copper wire to and from the photo flash capacitor buss to add strength and
stability to the circuit components.
Implementing a Strain Relief :
Strain reliefs are essential for electrical safety. They prevent cables
from being ripped out of a circuit in the event an electrical device gets dropped or e.g., should
someone trip over an electrical chord. I did not have a strain relief when I assembled my pulser. I
plan on adding two strain reliefs, one for each chord coming out of my device.
Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI):
A GFCI is designed to instantly interrupt the flow of
electricity in the event of a short circuit, before it can become a danger. A short circuit is basically
when electricity finds an alternate path to ground, instead of going through the intended circuit. A
short circuit can happen within an electrical device, or it can happen through a person who has
unknowingly provided a shorter electrical path to ground. I recommend using a GFCI in conjunction
with this device. Probably the easiest way to do this is to purchase an extension chord or a power
strip that has a GFCI as part of the unit. Modern building codes in the United States require all
kitchens, bathrooms and out-door circuits to have GFCI circuit breakers or receptacles.
SCR:
The SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier) and has three contacts. In my device the SCR is
mounted onto a home-made bracket to again add more stability to the circuit components. The
bracket for the SCR and all other components of this device are mounted to an insulative plexiglas
sub-floor using 1/2 inch #4 standard machine screws .
1.) Anode: The entire casing of the SCR, including the treaded portion and the threaded nut (when
attached), is the Anode and is HOT when the unit is fired up. The SCR I used had an insulator to
insulate the Anode from a mounting bracket. Included with the threaded nut and insulator, was also a
metal ring which serves as the Anode solder point. See diagram and photo below.
2.) Gate: In Chris Gupta's circuit, the Gate of the SCR connects to one side of the Push-To-Make
switch. On the SCR that I used, the Gate was the shorter of the two solder points coming up from the
top of the unit.
3.) Cathode: Again, on the SCR that I used, the Cathode was the longer and thicker of the two solder
points coming up from the top of the unit. It connects to one lead of the coil.
Note: The other lead from the coil is soldered to the negative buss of the photo flash capacitor array.
See schematic and Photos.
I used a 3/4 inch EMT (electrical conduit) mounting bracket to fabricate a U shaped bracket to mount
the SCR to. First I pounded the bracket flat, and then bent and cut it to the desired shape. The bracket
was mounted to the sub-floor using one 3/8 inch #4 phillips machine screw, lock washer and nut. I
had to shorten the length of the machine screw in order maximize the distance between the end of the
screw and the bottom of the SCR. The bracket had to be short enough to provide enough clearance
for the box cover, but long enough to provide sufficient clear space for the bottom end of the SCR.
See photo below. The SCR attaches to the bracket between the two insulators. When the assembly is
tightened, the insulator provides effective insulation for a metal bracket.
I should perhaps mention that I drilled a hole into the top surface of the bracket that was large
enough for the protrusion of the upper insulator to fit through. The lower insulating ring comes up
underneath the bracket and is held in place by the Anode solder point ring and finally the nut. See
SCR diagram above.
I wired the ground wire to the housing of the Push-to Make switch as this is the only metal
component I touch during the operation of the Pulser. I decided to use a plastic box over a metal one,
because there is so much current flying around and I wanted reduce the chance of any short circuits.
I
also made sure that all of the components were all sufficiently spaced apart from each other.
Since there is a fair amount of current flying around this machine, Chris Gupta recommended not to
use a printed circuit board to build this device. That is also why I opted to implement the use of an
insulated plexiglas sub-floor to mount all of the components to.
Bulbs and Lamp Holders
: I used candelabra lamp holders as they take up less space and are less
bulky. Holes of the appropriate size were drilled into the top of the box about 1 inch in from the
edges. The main thing here, is to make sure that the bulbs are not touching when screwed into the
sockets. My pulser makes use of two spherical shaped 60W bulbs. The spherical bulbs were more
aesthetically pleasing to me than traditional candelabra bulbs. Should a bulb burn out, replace it
before continued use. In Chris Gupta's design the bulbs act as current limiters and protect the SCR
from short-circuiting.
Note:
Keep in mind that the bulbs do get hot if you are using the pulser for several minutes at a time.
Inductor Coil:
If you want to go the easy way like me, and don't want to go through the hassle of
building your own coil, one can purchased from
Madisound Speaker Components, Inc.
This link will
take you to the correct page on their web site. You are wanting the
Sidewinder 2.5 mH 16AWG Air
Core Inductor Coil.
It costs only $14.30.
Note
1:
The AMS coil that is listed in numerous Beck texts as an alternative to building your own, is
no longer manufactured.
Connecting the Inductor Coil and the Switch:
The
inductor coil
attaches to the Cathode of the
SCR and to the negative 'Contact Bar' of the capacitor bank. The
push-to-make
switch attaches to
the gate of the SCR and to one of the following: directly to the + buss or contact bar of the capacitor
bank, between the positive buss buss of the capacitor bank and the anode of the SCR (See Photos), or
directly to the anode of the SCR. However you hook up the switch, keep in mind there is a 10K
resistor between the switch and Anode of the SCR.
Photo Flash Capacitors:
The ability of a capacitor to store a charge is measured in 'Farads'. Most
capacitors are labeled in Micro Farads (uF). The photo-flash capacitors you see in the tray below, all
came from one run to a local drug store that does photo processing. They are all from an assortment
of disposable flash cameras and range from 80uF - 160uF.
On this occasion I hit the jackpot as the camera recycle bin was full. I could have selected twice as
many. Different camera manufactures and even cameras from the same company will often have caps
of different ratings, ranging anywhere from 330V 80uF - 330V 160uF, and on occasion even higher.
Larger capacitors with higher voltage and uF ratings can store more energy. When hooked up in
parallel the uF ratings are cumulative. Two capacitors rated at 330V 80uF hooked up in parallel, will
have a combined rating of 330V 160uF. When hooked up in series, it is the voltage rating that
increases. The same two capacitors hooked up in series would have a combined rating of 660V 80uF.
Note how the capacitance is
NOT
additive when hooking capacitors up in series. For more
information on
hooking capacitors up in series click on this link.
Chris Gupta offers the following general rule of thumb about capacitors hooked together in a parallel
configuration: The voltage flowing through a set of capacitors in parallel, should not exceed the
voltage of the lowest rated capacitor. For example if you connect a 330V 80uF capacitor and a 150V
80uF capacitor together in parallel, the combined voltage rating of the two will be 150V.

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