Prop-Up Tablet Case.pdf
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PROP-UP TABLET CASE
SEW AN ENVELOPE CASE FOR YOUR TABLET WITH A BUILT-IN PROP-UP STAND
THE
WREN
The example numbers here fit my basic Kindle, 6″ display, with a leather cover
attached. You will need to do your own Sewing Math based on your tablet’s
measurements. I leave the leather cover on the Kindle while in the envelope case so
I measured my Kindle with the cover on.
You will need three accurate measurements: width, length, depth. I found placing
the tablet on a table and measuring with a seam guide gave me the best
measurement of depth.
ESTABLISH FABRIC WIDTH
Add together the width and the depth of the tablet, then add in wiggle room (I chose
⅛″ but ¼″ would also work), and finally add in double your seam allowance. Like this:
Quilting-weight fabric for Outer Shell*
Coordinating quilting-weight fabric for Lining*
Medium-weight interfacing*
�½″– ¾″ Button
Heavy cardboard, or art board
The cardboard that I use here was once the back of a drawing tablet and is just
shy of ¼″ thick.
Coordinating thread, appropriate needle for the fabric chosen, and if possible,
a zipper foot.
Tablet Width + Tablet Depth + Wiggle Room + (Seam Allowance x 2) = Fabric Width
Example: 4 ¾ + ⅝ + ⅛ + (¼ x 2) = Width
4.75 + .625 + .125 + .5 = 6
ESTABLISH FABRIC LENGTH
Multiply the length of the tablet times three. To that figure add double the depth of
the tablet, and finally add in double your seam allowance. Like so:
(Tablet Length x 3) + (Tablet Depth x 2) + (Seam Allowance x 2) = Fabric Length
Example: (6 ¾ x 3) + (⅝ x 2) + (¼ x 2) = Length
(6.75 x 3) + (.625 x 2) + (.25 x 2) = Length
20.25 + 1.25 + .5 = 22
Tutorial
: CANVAS GROWTH CHART
©2014 Renée Murphy | v.2 | www.TheInspiredWren.com
*See
Cutting
for the amount of materials needed —the size of your tablet will dictate
how much you need. I was able to use large scraps from previous projects. The
remnant bin at your local fabric store would also be a great source of material for
this project.
|
PAGE 1 OF 4
CUT THE FABRIC AND INTERFACING
Using the dimensions you calculated above, cut one Shell Fabric, one Lining Fabric,
and one piece of Interfacing. So for my Kindle in this example, I cut one of each 6″
wide by 22″ long. At this point, set the cardboard aside uncut—we could do the
Sewing Math for that now, but it’ll be easier to do it when we’re ready for it.
NOTE: I once had a professor of industrial design model making who loved the phrase
“square to the world,” meaning model pieces cut to perfect measurements and
angles. This is one project without a lot of wiggle room, therefore cutting “square to
the world” is important. Mark twice, measure thrice, then cut and sew carefully.
sew, stopping with the needle in the fabric ¼” (or your desired seam allowance)
before the edge of the flap. Again lift the pressure foot and pivot the fabric to
sew up the opposite long edge of the flap, then lower the pressure foot and
stitch to the top. Do not sew across the top, raw edge of the flap. Being careful
not to cut the stitches, snip into the corners at the pivot points, and trim away
the seam allowance at an angle.
ASSEMBLE THE FABRIC ENVELOPE
1
2
Attach the interfacing to the wrong side of the Shell fabric.
Calculate the length of your tablet plus your seam allowance (in my example:
6 .75″ + .25″ = 7″). Measure from one short, raw end of the Shell fabric and mark
a line parallel to the short end. Fold the fabric along the line of Step 2 and stitch
the sides in place, backstitching or lock-stitching at the beginning and end of
each stitch line. Press. Trim the corners at the folded edge.
5
6
Turn the case right side out with the Lining inside the Shell pocket. Press.
From the top of the pocket edge, measure and mark the depth of the tablet plus
wiggle room (in this example .625″ + .125″ = .75″). Top stitch along this line from
side to side of the flap—for a cleaner look, you may want to avoid backstitching
or lock-stitching at the beginning and end of the line, and instead pull threads
through to the Lining side of the flap and tie off.
©2014 Renée Murphy | v.2 | www.TheInspiredWren.com
PROP-UP TABLET CASE | P A G E 2 O F 4
3
4
Repeat Step 2 with the Lining fabric.
Turn the Shell fabric right side out. Place the Shell piece into the Lining piece,
right sides together and align all seam allowances in the same direction (toward
the outer edges of the flap. Starting at the top of the flap, sew down one long
edge of the flap stopping with the needle in the fabric ¼” (or your desired seam-
allowance) past the top edge of the pocket. [Quick
tip: I find it helpful to mark
the pivot point before I start sewing.]
Lift the pressure foot and pivot the fabric
to stitch across the top edge of the pocket, then lower the pressure foot and
CONSTRUCT THE PROP-UP STAND FLAP
7
Now we have to do a little more Sewing Math for the cardboard. Measure the
length of the flap from the stitch line in Step 6 to the raw edge, subtract 1 �½″
plus your seam allowance, and then divide by two. Like this:
[Length of Flap – (1 �½ + Seam Allowance)] ÷ 2 = Cardboard Length
Example: [6 ¾ - (1 �½ + ¼)]
÷ 2 = Length
[6.75 – (1.5 + .25)] ÷ 2 = Length
(6.75 – 1.75) ÷ 2 = Length
5 ÷ 2 = 2.5
For the width, measure across the sewn flap and subtract ⅛″. This one’s simple
at least:
Sewn Width – ⅛ = Cardboard Width
Example: 5.625 - .125 = 5.5
Now cut two pieces of cardboard to those measurements, in this example: 5.5″
x 2.5″. But wait! Don’t ruin your good scissors or rotary cutter, use a utility knife,
an x-acto knife, or at least an
old
pair of scissors.
8
Slide one piece of cut cardboard into the open end of the flap until it is flush
against the line of top-stitching from Step 6. Using a zipper foot, top-stitch next
to the cardboard—remember, you may want to avoid backstitching or lock-
stitching at the beginning and end of the line, and instead pull threads through
to the Lining side of the flap and tie off.
9
Slide the second piece of cardboard against the top-stitching from Step 8. Again,
top-stitch next to the cardboard using a zipper foot and tie off your threads.
10 Fold in your seam allowance (here: ¼″) on the raw ends of the flap and press.
Edge-stitch the short, top end of the flap closing the opening as you do so.
©2014 Renée Murphy | v.2 | www.TheInspiredWren.com
PROP-UP TABLET CASE | P A G E 3 O F 4
11 Find the center of the flap width and create a button hole to fit your button. It
may be easier to create a button hole parallel to the short end, but I found a
button hole parallel to the long side means less side-to-side wiggle for the flap
when the case is closed.
12 Sew the button in place, being careful to stitch through the front panel of the
pocket only.
I love that this case protects my Kindle from banging around among the crumbs and
detritus in my big tote and also gives me a safe place to easily prop it up when I’m
out to lunch by myself. The button doubles as a stop that keeps the tablet from
sliding down and I can adjust the height of the prop based on the glare in the room.
You can easily look up any tablet’s dimensions on-line to make a quick, custom gift.
Or just dive into your stash and sew for yourself like I did.
If you use this tutorial, I’d love to see and hear about your results. Come show off
your projects on the
Share
page at www.TheInspiredWren.com. There you can link
up images from a blog, Flickr, Pinterest, or Instagram.
©2014 Renée Murphy | v.2 | www.TheInspiredWren.com
PROP-UP TABLET CASE | P A G E 4 O F 4
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