CustomFitPencilSkirtTutorial.pdf

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So Sew Easy
Pencil Skirt Sloper
Have you EVER owned a pencil skirt that fit you properly? I find the ready to wear either gape in
the waist, or are too tight across the hip or thigh or the darts aren’t right. I guess perhaps my
waist to hip ratio does not match the ideal hourglass figure. Neither is my widest point
in the regular hip – I am a true pear with my thighs wider than my hips but with a very square
waist to hips too.
If your figure doesn’t match the standard ready to wear shape, then you need a custom pattern.
It’s really not that difficult – let’s give it a go.
Want to make your own perfectly fitting skirt pattern – read on!
How to make a pencil skirt sloper
1.
Download the calculator spread sheet here -
Pencil Skirt Pattern Sloper Calculations
Spreadsheet.
Or copy and paste the direct link into your browser:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/xdpvmgpiioujm88/Pencil%20Skirt%20Sloper%20-
%20calc%20spreadsheet%20-%20so-sew-easy.com.xlsx
2. Print out these instructions. It will be easier if you have the photos to refer to without
having to scroll up and down.
3. Take measurements at the natural waistline and at the widest part of the body (hips,
bottom or thighs if needed).
4. If you have a tape measure that uses centimeters, I recommend using that for this pattern
drafting as it will give a more accurate measurement than using inches. If you cannot use
centimeters, then try to be as accurate as possible with your measurements in inches for the
best finished result. Do not round to the nearest inch. You will need to use fractions of an
inch such as 0.5 for a half or 0.25 for a quarter inch.
5. Mark on the body where the measurements were taken, or tie around a piece of string or
loose elastic and then measure the vertical distance between your measurements from waist
to widest part of the body.
6. Measure how long you want your standard skirt length from waist to hemline.
7. Enter your measurements in the calculator spread sheet either in inches or centimetres –
not both.
8. Use large sheets of paper or tape together enough smaller pieces until you make up a
piece of paper big enough to draw your pattern. Many sewists like to use
Sewable Swedish
Tracing Paper
or
Medical Pattern Paper
for pattern making – it’s strong enough to use again
and again and can even be pinned to the body to check for fit.
9. Make the paper the length of your skirt plus 4 inches, and the width of your widest
measurement, divided by two and add back 4 inches. This will give you some working area
and allow for you to write down your measurements and calculations.
10. We will need some ‘ease’ in our skirt if it is not to be skin tight and then split when we sit
down and our bottom and thighs expand. So add some ease to your hip measurement - for
slimmer bodies allow 1.5cm, for softer bodies allow 2.5cm.
11. Add your ease into the calculator. 1.5 for slim bodies, 2.5 for curvy.
12. Length A to B is the length of the skirt from waist to hemline excluding the width of any
waistband.
13. Length A to C is the hip measurement divided by two, plus your ease of 1.5 or 2.5cm.
14. Now draw a rectangle in the center of your paper which is the length A to B, and width A
to C from the calculator.
15. Now find the center of the line at the top and bottom and draw a vertical line down the
center to make two pattern pieces. On the right hand side, make this the skirt front and mark
that it is to be cut on the fold. The left hand piece is the skirt back.
16. Add a hip line D to E across the full width and down from the waistline according to
your measurement from waist to hip. Length A to D is the waist down to hip measurement.
Check the calculator for your measurements.
17. Your basic pattern should look like this so far. I’m working in miniature so it is easier
to photograph!
The basic rectangle of length and hips plus sitting ease.
18. Our bodies are curved at the waist so we need to curve our pattern. First mark across on
each side for a quarter of the waist measurement plus 4.25cm for the two darts on the back,
and quarter waist plus 2.25 cm for the one dart on the front. Make these points F and G. The
measurements for F and G can be found in the calculator.
19. Now measure up 1.5cm from F and G and make these points H and I. Draw lines from H
to A and from I to C. Make these lines slightly curved.
20. Now to add the darts – let’s do the front first. The dart should be centered 4 inches from
the fold, so measure in 4 inches and make a mark on the waistline. This is the center of the
dart. Now measure out 1cm on each side of your mark and these are the outsides of your
dark. Mark. The length of your front dart is 10cm and it should run parallel to the skirt front.
Draw up the dart, joining up the points you just marked.
21. It should look like this.
Showing the curve of the waist at the top of each piece.
22. Procedures are the same for the two back darts. We will space them evenly so divide
your quarter waist measurement into 3 for the spacing. My quarter waist is 20cm, so the
first dart is at 6.7cm and the second at 13.3cm. Dart lengths are 14cm for the one on the
far left, and 12.5cm for the one on the right. Each will be 2cm wide and run parallel to
the side. The measurements for the darts can be found or checked in your calculator.

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