Suffolk-Threads-Heritage-Trail.pdf

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A celebration of the
Suffolk Wool Towns
Bury St Edmunds
A glorious cathedral, the world’s
smallest pub, the only remaining
Georgian theatre in the land and the
beautiful Abbey Gardens adjacent
to Angel Hill, Bury St Edmunds has
plenty to shout about.
Some useful definitions
Babergh Hundred:
In England
and Wales a hundred was the
division of a shire for administrative,
military and judicial purposes under
common law. In Saxon times,
a hundred had enough land for
a hundred households.
Bays:
A fine and light
fabric which was lightly fulled
and raised.
Broadcloth:
A plain and fairly
weighty fabric of medium quality,
measuring 28yd 28in long by 5ft 3in
wide. The main product of Suffolk
in the Middle Ages, exported as far
as Russia and the Middle East.
Cade's rebellion:
Uprising against
the government of Henry VI led
by Jack Cade, an Irishman living
in Kent.
Carding:
Combing the wool
Dozen:
A cloth about 13 yards
long, either broad or narrow.
Fulling:
The process of beating
cloth to clean and thicken it; done
either by human hands and feet,
or by hammers at specially adapted
water-mills.
Hanseatic League:
The League
was an economic alliance of
trading cities and their guilds that
dominated trade along the coast
of Northern Europe.
Kersey:
Cloth of no standard
dimensions, possibly named after
the village of Kersey.
Shearmen:
The experts who
cut the nap of the cloth.
Clare & Cavendish
Clare and Cavendish are two of those
rare, unspoilt villages that give visitors
a glimpse of old England.
Hadleigh
Legend has it that Guthrum, King of the
Danes, is buried in the grounds of St
Mary’s Church, just one of the historic
buildings that lend their antique charm
to Hadleigh, a bustling market town.
A small cluster of towns and villages in the heart of
Suffolk known as the Suffolk Wool Towns rapidly
became the jewel in the crown for Mediaeval
England’s booming textile trade. Their heady
success and global fame encouraged delegations
of Flemish weavers to flock to villages such as
Cavendish, Clare, Long Melford and Lavenham.
Perhaps even more significantly though, it also led
to the creation of a distinctly lavish local architecture
that endures today with Lavenham, home to a
multitude of exquisite listed buildings, proudly
bearing the lofty mantle of ‘England’s Best
Preserved Mediaeval Village’.
Key to the maps
To celebrate the unique history of the Suffolk Wool
Towns, the Heritage Lottery funded project Suffolk
Threads weaves together a rich tapestry of events
that tell the fascinating story of this pivotal moment
in English history. These include guided walks in
Lavenham savouring the beautiful architecture and
historic sites that attract thousands of visitors each
year; a number of Heritage Open Days hosted by
The National Trust at the Guildhall of Corpus Christi
that include demonstrations of traditional spinning
and weaving techniques by the Lavenham Guild of
Spinners & Weavers; and the opportunity to explore
the online and printed Heritage Trail, which signposts
visitors to all the key places in the Suffolk Wool
Towns. We hope you enjoy the experience.
Ipswich
Stunning regenerated waterfront
buzzing with cafés and restaurants,
beautiful parks, river cruises, multiple
museums and theatres.
Lavenham
Perhaps the best way to make the most
of Lavenham is on foot. A number of
circular walks weave through the historic
lanes taking you on a journey through
Mediaeval England.
Long Melford
With its two fabulous historic buildings
– Kentwell Hall and The National Trust’s
Melford Hall, of Beatrix Potter fame –
the beautiful village of Long Melford has
a rich and distinguished history, which
extends back to the booming
wool trade.
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Point of interest
Parking
Route of walk
Additional route
Footpath
Water
Prominent building
Built-up area
Woodland / green
open space
Open country
Sudbury
Set in the meandering Stour Valley, an
area of outstanding beauty immortalised
by landscape painter John Constable,
the ancient market town of Sudbury
has a timeless charm that continues to
attract locals and visitors alike.
visitsuffolk.com/threads
Bury St Edmunds
For leisure and shopping, Bury St Edmunds is a delight. Whether it’s small independent boutiques or
high street retailers, everything is within easy walking distance – and you’ll be hard pressed to find better
restaurants and cafés than those in Bury. Smiths Row, a leading contemporary craft gallery, boasts an
enviable range of affordable goodies, while neighbouring Moyse’s Hall Museum on The Cornhill provides
a fascinating insight into the past.
Book an evening at The Theatre Royal for a thespian treat, or perhaps take a tour of The Greene King
Brewery. You won’t stay anywhere more quintessentially English and charming than The Angel Hotel on
Angel Hill, where you can gaze at the cathedral's magnificent Millennium Gothic Lantern Tower from the
balcony. Bury St Edmunds is a rare treat.
Trail Details
Distance:
3.25 km / 2 miles
Duration:
2-3 hours
Parking:
St Andrew’s Car Park
(near bus station)
PA
R
AY
KW
3.
6.
ST
JOHN’S
ST
The walk:
By the end of the Middle Ages, Bury St Edmunds was
a major industrial town. However, the broadcloth from
which fortunes had been made gradually became less
fashionable as more fabrics were imported from the
continent using Flemish weavers. The industry in Bury St
Edmunds did not adapt, and was reduced to spinning yarn
for sale to the weavers of Norwich and North Essex.
CA
NN
ON
Bus
Station
RISBYG
ATE
ST
1.
ST
T
ATE
S
THG
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OR
D
ST
RLAN
GA
4
Chequer Square
John Baret, a mediaeval merchant, lived at Baret House
(in the corner). His house was used in 1463 as a Spinning
House – unusual, as this sort of work was usually carried
out in people’s own homes. Bury was famed for its coverlet
weaving and quite a lot of the weavers were described
as dornix (or darnick) weavers, from the Flemish word
for Tournay, which may have been used for hangings or
ecclesiastical vestments.
BR
T
SHO
R
-
K
BRAC
LAN
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6.
EN
TGO
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U
T
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VEL
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St Andrew’s Street South
and Woolhall Street
Just past the turning to Woolhall Street, there is a boundary
plaque on the right for James Oakes (re-sited from an
earlier building near here), a famous yarn merchant in the
18th century who supplied the Norwich worsted weavers.
On this site he had combing sheds and wool warehouses.
Retrace your steps turning right into Woolhall Street.
The woolhall that stood here was demolished in 1828.
The Woolpack Inn once stood where Pizza Hut is now.
Turn right into Guildhall Street.
T
STREE
OW
ST
MU
R
HIGH
BAXTE
LOWER
ST
B
A
X
TE
R
SAINT
ANDREW’S
AV
THE
TR
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St Mary’s Church
One of the largest parish churches in the country and the
resting place of Mary Tudor, Queen of France, Duchess
of Suffolk and favourite sister of Henry VIII. St Mary’s is
renowned for its magnificent hammer-beam Angel roof
and is also home to the Chapel of the Suffolk and Royal
Anglian Regiments.
CORNHILL
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WO
O
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T
MARKE
ERSE
KING’S
ROAD
ATE
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ABBEYG
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ST
HATT
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Cathedral
Chequer
Square
Abbey
(ruins)
ST
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L
HIL
ANGE
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HITING
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St Edmundsbury Cathedral
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The Guildhall and 81 Guildhall Street
The Guildhall is possibly the oldest civic building in the
country, probably dating from the 12th century. Opposite,
81 Guildhall Street (now Ashton Graham, Solicitors) was
the home and banking hall of James Oakes. The wings at
each end were built by Sir John Soane – the right-hand
wing was the banking hall, the left-hand the dining room.
To the right was the Green Dragon public house also
owned by Oakes – his workers handed back their hard-
earned cash in return for beer! Turn left into Churchgate
Street, then right into Whiting Street.
and Abbey Gardens
Suffolk’s only cathedral, with its stunning Millennium
tower, has been a church since the time of King Cnut in
the early 11th century. Since 1914, it has been the
Cathedral Church.
Stroll through the Abbey Gardens, with the ruins of the
11th century Benedictine abbey. Note the Norman tower
which houses the cathedral bells, and visit the churchyard
where Martha Gosnold is buried – daughter of explorer
Captain Gosnold who named Martha’s Vineyard in
her memory.
Cross Angel Hill and walk up Abbeygate Street to the Corn
Exchange, turning right along The Traverse. You may like to
visit Smith’s Row (see introduction).
Return to the car park via Cornhill and Brentgovel Street.
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STREET
1.
GUILDHA
2
CHU
ST
GATE
R
CH
EGE
COLL
4
ELL
DEW
BRI
E
LL
STRE
3
E
L
AN
COLLEG
E
H
CHURC
LKS
WA
TUNS
L
AN
E
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SOUT
T
T
CROWN
S
H
EET
STR
LANE
4.
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United Reform Church
The United Reform Church, once the Independent Chapel
dating from around 1705, was attended by a vibrant group
of dissenters, many of whom were involved in the wool
industry. Turn left into College Lane, cross over into Church
Walks, then cross the road into Tuns Lane and turn left.
2.
WESTGATE
STREET
200 metres
200 yards
visitsuffolk.com/threads
© Crown Copyright. Licence No.100023395 2011
HIGH
ST
Clare, a wool village that lies on the north bank of the River Stour between Sudbury and Bury St Edmunds
in the South and Heart of Suffolk and voted BT Suffolk Village of the Year 2010, is infused with history and
traditional charm. Clare Castle Country Park, the 13th century Priory and Great Gothic Wool Church provide
a fascinating background for visitors to the village who will be spoilt for choice in terms of the excellent
guesthouses and B&Bs on offer, plus the range of restaurants and cafés.
Cavendish, with its three village pubs, iconic Suffolk Pink cottages and village green, is the perfect place to
stop for a picnic; it’s time to take a deep breath and be transported back to another age, a gentler age when
life moved at a different pace.
3
4.
HAR
PL
AN
E
Clare & Cavendish
The walk:
This walk links the historic towns of Clare and Cavendish,
both picture postcard Suffolk villages. The walk to
Cavendish is a gentle, undulating ramble following a
section of the long distance footpath, the Stour Valley
Path. There are delightful views of the countryside along
the route, refreshments are available at the half way point
at Houghton Hall, and Cavendish is truly beautiful – don’t
forget your camera! You return on the same route which in
the ever changing Suffolk light offers a different experience
every time.
During the centuries prosperous for the cloth trade, nearly
every important building in Clare had associations with the
cloth industry, from the selling of raw wool to the weaving
of broadcloth and later bays, says and linen, to the houses
of wealthy clothiers and mercers. The wealth of the town
is reflected in the impressive size of the 14th and 15th
century parish church of St Peter and St Paul.
14th century; formerly a much wider street, this was a
marshalling place for wool carters. Callis Street leads to
Common Street and the common.
CAL
LI
S
3.
CO
M
M
ST
Lower Common
ON
ST
TO CAVENDISH
School
CH
H
ST
URC
2
ISH
RD
VEND
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KET
HILLL
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M
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4
High Street
Once called Heigh Row (and possibly forming the western
side of the early market), this street has many associations.
The Swan was known as ‘Quilters’ in the 14th century.
‘Gilberds’ was the former name of 7-13 High Street, a
15th century half-timbered mansion owned by William
Gilbert, the largest wool business in the 16th century.
Clare Parish Church was known as the wool church in
the 14th and 15th centuries. The Ancient House was
bought by the important clothier John Fenn.
5.
NE
TH
E
TE
GA
R
ST
AR
RD
ION
STAT
Clare Castle
Country Park
N
e
w
Cu
t
6.
1.
NG
LTI
MA
NE
LA
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Clare
Priory
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Nethergate Street
This has 15th to 18th century associations – including the
houses of 15th century clothiers John Horold and John
Fenn, and tenements owned by 16th century clothier
John Martin. Nethergate House is a late 15th century
half-timbered house (altered in the 17th century) which
belonged to the Crosse family, important 17th century
clothiers – Francis Crosse was an important dissenter.
The house was later used as a school, and still later as
a hotel. The adjacent house, currently ‘Cloth House’,
was probably a weaving shed; behind is a tenter’s yard.
White House was the home of late 17th century saymaker
Thomas Raymond, and Richmond House belonged to
18th century weaver William Hammond.
1
Market Hill
The market dates to before Domesday – wool and
woollens were sold there from shops and stalls that once
filled the middle (these were pulled down in the 19th
century for redevelopment as a pig and poultry market).
Wool was also traded at local fairs, including the annual
Wentford Fair. The Old Bear & Crown was probably once
the ‘new’ hall owned by William Gilbert and used for wool.
There are 17th century drapers’ and weavers’ shops at
1-2 and 6-8 Market Hill. Old Bank House was once the site
of two weavers’ cottages, pulled down in the 19th century.
Ri
ver
S
tour
250 metres
250 yards
A1
0
92
Path
Valley
Stour
Hermitage
Farm
Houghton
Hall
Mumford
Cottages
2
12-16 Church Street
Owned by the Crispe family, this was the largest mid-17th
3
century bay and say making business with weaving rooms
at the rear. They issued tokens, including farthings coined
at Clare.
6
Clare Castle
Once owned by the immensely wealthy de Clare family,
who were among the largest landowners in the early
14th century, known to sell wool locally and to London.
The de Clares grazed their sheep on the common.
6
Scott’s
Farm
NE
CAVENDISH
LA
3
Callis Street
The name is said to be a corruption of Calais, the
compulsory port for all wool exports from the late
HAR
P
Trail Details
Distance:
11 km / 7 miles
Duration:
4-5 hours
Parking:
Clare Country Park
School
visitsuffolk.com/threads
CLARE
EN
CAV
DI
S
O
HR
AD
A1092
Riv
© Crown Copyright. Licence No.100023395 2011
er
S
tou
500 metres
r
500 yards
The flint and freestone parish church of St Mary’s houses the oldest bell in Suffolk that still marks the time,
and is home to the Hadleigh Choral Society, which performs a host of fantastic concerts throughout the year.
Hadleigh has a fascinating history reflected in over 250 listed buildings, from its fabulous rise to fortune during
the Middle Ages due to the burgeoning wool and silk trade, through to the establishment of The East Anglian
School of Painting and Drawing in the 1930s at Benton End, a rambling farmhouse on the edge of
the town, whose students included Lucian Freud and Maggi Hambling.
The Hadleigh Show, first held in 1840 and also known as ‘The May Show’, is one of the oldest and most
popular events of its kind in Suffolk; the perfect day out for all the family.
S
T
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E
ET
Hadleigh
Council
Offices
CORKS
LAN
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1.
EG
TH
CA
LA
Hadleigh
Bridge
RI
DG
B
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ST
W
NE
E
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A
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IS
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The walk:
Records kept by the Stewards of the manor identify that,
by the early 1300s, around 37% of the population of
Hadleigh was involved in the production of woollen cloth.
Hadleigh was run by the clothiers who, on making their
fortunes, moved out either to landed estates, or to trade
in the City of London. With the demise of the market for
the heavy woollen cloth produced in Hadleigh, the town
declined by the early 18th century into severe poverty.
This is a very gentle walk around Hadleigh. The Guildhall
complex in the heart of the town is visually impressive,
but do not miss the real hidden gem of this walk – the
mural in Viscount Bayning’s House showing Joseph being
thrown down a well! The walk includes a stroll alongside
the peaceful and pretty River Brett – the more adventurous
can walk up the hill behind the river for views of the town
or seek out the Hadleigh Railway Walk, a two mile walk to
Raydon and back.
Market House. In the 1450s, part of the market lands were
purchased for the building of the Guilds Halls. Following the
reformation, these Halls were purchased for the town and
joined to the Market House. In 1851 part of the complex
was pulled down to build the New Town Hall, incorporating
the Grand Hall and a police station.
RG
EO
G
H
HIG
ET
RE
ST
6.
Brick Kiln
Farm
4
Deanery Tower
The brick Deanery Tower was built by the Rector, William
Pykenham, in the late 15th century as a gatehouse to the
mediaeval rectory.
4
3
5
DA
MA
G
RO
A
6
DUKE
ST
R
T
EE
N
LE
ET
RE
ST
D
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St Mary’s Church
One of the largest parish churches in Suffolk, the first stone
church was built in around 1250, the tower being the last
obvious part. The flint and stone church was enlarged in
the 14th and 15th centuries. During the Commonwealth
period the church was stripped of its ornamentation, and
in the 19th century the exterior and interior of the church
were restored. The church clock, with its exterior bell,
has been in position since at least 1584.
250 metres
250 yards
STATION
ROAD
© Crown Copyright. Licence No.100023395 2011
a
W
ay
il
w
on
Ra
yd
Ra
to
1
The Row Chapel, George Street
William Pykenham left money for the building of
Almshouses in George Street, including a chapel already
on the site, dedicated to the Blessed Mary Magdalen and
to St Catherine. This chapel was refurbished in the late
19th century.
HO
L
C
BE
K
A
SL
2.
NE
2
5.
lk
6
Viscount Bayning’s House (now Abbott’s
Estate Agents, 46-48 High Street)
The core of this house is an early hall house, the exterior
being pargeted and also having a leather faced one-
handed clock, probably from the building’s role as a
clockmaker’s in the 18th century. One of the rooms inside
this house has a heavily moulded ceiling and a wall painting
depicting Potifer’s wife rescuing Joseph from the well (open
6
to the public when the estate agents is open).
2
Toppesfield Bridge
Built in the 14th century and widened in 1812, said to be
the oldest working bridge in the county.
The next three buildings all lie in the centre of the
town in the churchyard:
3
3
The Guildhall complex
3.
4.
This comprises the Market House, Guilds Halls and
the Victorian New Town Hall. The building fronting the
churchyard is the Market House, probably built in the
1430s and either incorporating or replacing the original
Trail Details
Distance:
3�½ km / 2 miles
Duration:
1-2 hours
Parking:
Magdalen Road Car Park
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