111 - 5 Easy Upgrades For Your Router Table.pdf

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5 EASY
UPGRADES
FOR YOUR
ROUTER TABLE
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co.
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A few simple add-ons is all it takes to make working at the
router table faster and safer.
A router table can improve the
capability of your router. But for
your table to become a precision
tool, you’ll need to add a few
important accessories.
FENCE.
The first thing you’ll want to
add is a fence. It’s essential for you
to be able to work accurately and
safely at the router table.
I built the fence you see at right
to serve a dual function. It can be
used as a short fence for most of
your work. It can also be rotated to
serve as a tall fence for routing the
end of a tall workpiece or working
with larger pieces.
A T-track set in a groove in
the face of each fence allows you
to attach and position additional
accessories like a featherboard, bit
guard, or stop block.
To build the fence, begin by cut-
ting two pieces of
3
⁄
4
" plywood to a
length that equals the width of your
router table. You’ll need to cut the
piece for the tall fence a little wider.
Next, center a notch at the edge
of both pieces. This will provide
clearance for the router bit. Then
you can cut a long groove in the
T-track accepts fence
accessories
Tall fence
Short fence
Workpiece
4
2
Support
blocks
T-track
Notch
for bit
clearance
6#/4
1#/4
T-track
groove
Rabbet for
sawdust relief
Tall fence
face
T-track
face of each piece and install the
T-track in the groove.
To provide suppor t for both
fences, I cut four blocks and then
used glue and screws
to attach them
behind the fence.
Finally, I added a
small rabbet along
Workpiece
the bottom edge of
the fence. The rab-
bet provides a place
for sawdust to go to
prevent it from inter-
fering with the cut.
TALL FENCE.
Much of
the time, the height
of the router table
Notch
for bit
fence isn’t a concern.
clearance
But whenever you
need to work at the
end of a long workpiece, cut splined
miters, or rout a large panel, a tall
fence, like you see at left, is a must.
It allows you to complete the task
safely and accurately.
As I mentioned before, the fence
I built has a dual function. So it only
takes a few seconds to make the
switch to the tall fence. Just unclamp
the fence, rotate it so the tall fence
side is upright, and then secure it
back in position on the router table.
You can build a number of acces-
sories, including a dust port that can
be used with either the short or tall
fence. And since you added a T-track
to the face of the fence, all you need
to do is slip flange bolts into the T-
track, position the accessory, and
tighten it down with a knob. Then
you’re ready to work.
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
1
www.Woodsmith.com
DUST PORT.
Adding a dust port to the back of your
Vacuum
nozzle
Support
block
Face plate
fence will save a lot of cleanup time around the shop.
The attachment is quick and easy to build.
It’s simply a plate made from
1
⁄
2
" plywood that’s
mitered along the edges to fit between the two
faces. A hole sized to fit the nozzle of your shop
vacuum is drilled in the center of the plate. Then
all you need to do is glue the plate between the
two middle support blocks and it’s ready to use.
Size hole
for vacuum
nozzle
SECTION
VEIW
Hardboard
key
#/8"
hole
Knob
STOP BLOCK.
Flange
bolt
Washer
Chamfer prevents
sawdust buildup
A stop block, like
the one you see in the drawing
at left, is a handy accessory to
add to your router table fence. It
allows you to make repetitive cuts
quickly and accurately.
The stop block is easy to build.
Begin with a piece of
3
⁄
4
" plywood
that’s a little longer than the height
of your short fence. Then cut
chamfers on the ends to keep the
sawdust from getting trapped against
the block during the cut.
The next thing you need to do is
drill a hole in the face of the block.
A small dado in the back holds a
key to keep the block from turning.
Now all that’s left is to insert the
bolt, washer, and knob you’ll use to
secure the stop block in the T-track.
FEATHERBOARD.
A featherboard is an important
accessory for holding a workpiece firmly against the
router table. It also helps prevent the workpiece from
kicking back as it passes by the bit.
To build the featherboard shown in the drawing at
right, I started with a piece of
1
⁄
2
"
-thick hardwood. Then
I used the table saw to make a 30° miter at each end.
Next, you’ll need to make fingers to hold the work-
piece. You can do this by making a series of equally
spaced kerfs at the table saw with the blade tilted at
30°. Once you’re done cutting the fingers, all that’s
left to do is to cut a pair of slots so it can be mounted
to the T-track in the fence with flange bolts, washers,
and a pair of knobs.
Slots
Fingers
Clamp featherboard
to auxiliary fence to
cut “fingers”
30°
Workpiece
Tilt
blade 30°
◄
BIT GUARD.
Back
Flange
bolt
Back
Protective
shield
Workpiece
To work safely, you
should add a bit guard to your
router table. The
Knob
simple guard I
made attaches to
the T-track in the
face of the fence.
It’s just a piece of
#/8"
1
⁄ "-thick
slots
polycar-
4
bonate mounted to
an adjustable wood
Shield
back. (I chose to
use polycarbonate
because of its strength and ability
to resist shattering.)
To build the guard, first cut a
piece of
1
⁄
2
" plywood to size. Then cut
two
3
⁄
8
" slots near each end. You can
make the slots by drilling a couple of
holes and then using your jig saw to
cut out the waste between the holes.
Finally, attach the shield to the
back with screws. Then you can
use a couple of flange bolts, wash-
ers, and knobs to install the guard
in the T-track.
2
www.Woodsmith.com
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

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