101 - Stub Tenon And Groove Joinery.pdf

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STUB TENON
AND GROOVE
JOINERY
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co.
T
ips from
o
ur
s
hop
T
alking
s
hop
Table Saw Joinery:
Stub Tenon & Groove
One of the keys to building a
longlasting project is choosing the
best joinery at each stage. My goal
here is strong, snug-fitting joints
with the least amount of time and
effort. This is why time and again I
call on stub tenon and groove join-
ery for frame and panel assemblies.
The entire job can take place right at
the table saw, the setups are simple,
and the results are top-notch.
NOTE:
Panels may
be plywood or
solid wood
Panel
Stile
The advanTages.
A stub tenon and
groove is similar to a mortise and
tenon, but there are a couple of
things that set it apart. The main
difference is that a shallow, continu-
ous groove is substituted for a deep
mortise. Cutting a centered groove
at the table saw is easier and faster
than drilling out and cleaning up
a mortise. And since the groove is
continuous along the workpiece,
it can hold a tenon at each end, as
well as the panel
(drawing below)
.
Rail
Continuous
centered groove in
stile and rail
NOTE:
Width of
groove matches
thickness of panel
Stub tenon
on rails cut to fit
groove
NOTE:
All
joinery cut
on table saw
The smooth, consistent groove
then makes cutting and fitting the
short, mating stub tenon an easier
task. Finally, at the end of the job, the
assembly of a stub tenon and groove
joint is very forgiving. The tenons
can be easily aligned in the groove
for a tight, square assembly.
consideraTions.
Before going to the
following page to learn the tech-
nique, let me mention a couple of
points. First, I often use plywood
for the panel and glue it into the
frame. This adds extra strength to
the assembly. However, if you use
solid-wood panels, they should
“float” in the frame, without glue.
The thickness of the panel deter-
mines the width of the groove in the
rails and stiles. So if you use ply-
wood for the panel, be sure to size
the groove to fit. The depth of the
grooves can vary from a minimum
of
1
⁄
4
" to a maximum of
5
⁄
8
". If the
groove is shallower, the joint won’t
have enough “bite.” If it’s deeper,
you’ll start to weaken the wood
along the sides of the groove.
1
www.Woodsmith.com
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
The Groove
1
The first step is to cut the grooves
in all four of the frame pieces (stiles
and rails). The grooves need to be
centered in the pieces, cut to the
right width (to match the panel
thickness), and the right depth.
You can accomplish all this with a
simple table saw setup.
You’ll see the basics in Figure 1.
The setup consists of the rip fence, a
featherboard, and either a standard
blade or a dado blade. This choice
is governed by the width of the
groove. If the groove is
1
⁄
4
" or less, I
use a standard blade. For anything
over
1
⁄
4
", I’ll put on a dado blade
slightly narrower than the groove.
The Technique.
The key to center-
ing the groove is to cut it with
two passes, using the rip fence
as a guide. You cut one side of
the groove in the first pass, then
rotate the piece end-for-end to cut
the opposite side. Since both cuts
are registered from the fence, the
a.
groove is always centered (Figure
1a). The featherboard ensures the
workpiece is held snug to the fence
and the cuts are accurate.
seT up.
A test piece or a workpiece
can be used to set the blade height
and the fence position. This is a cut
and test process. Start by setting
the blade a bit low and adjust the
fence so that the first cut will fall
near the middle of the workpiece.
Make a set of passes, then check
the depth of the groove. Adjust the
blade height, make a second pair of
passes, and so on, until the depth
of the groove is dead-on.
mines the thickness of the tenon
and its fit in the groove. So I always
make certain to get this right. Start
by setting the fence “close” with
the blade a little bit low. Make a cut
across the tip of one rail, flip it over
and make a matching cut across
the opposite face. Be sure you press
down firmly on the workpiece so
you get a full-depth cut.
Compare the tenon to the groove
to judge how much to raise the
blade for the next trial. Then simply
sneak up on the fit until the tenon
slides snugly into the groove.
Now use the same method to
adjust the fence and establish the
length of the tenon (Figure 3a).
Here, you can test the fit directly to
2
At this point, the width of the
groove will be undersize. So adjust
the fence setting and repeat the set
of cuts until the panel is a snug, but
easy, fit in the groove (Figure 2).
Now, you can cut identical grooves
in the rest of the pieces.
the groove (Figure 4). To ensure a
tight assembly, the tenon should be
a hair short of bottoming out.
When the fence is positioned, you
can cut the tenons on all the rails.
Concentrate on keeping the end of
the workpiece snug against the rip
fence and flat against the table.
assembly.
Once the tenons are cut
and the panels sized, the assem-
bly goes quickly. I position the
panel in one stile, add a rail at
each end, and finally the remain-
ing stile. After checking the align-
ment of the parts, a pair of clamps
completes the job (main photo).
And you’ll find that for the small
investment of time, the return is
pretty impressive.
The Stub Tenon
With the grooves completed, you
can use them as a gauge for the stub
tenons you’ll cut on the ends of the
rails. The table saw setup used to cut
the tenons is shown in Figure 3.
A dado blade, wider than the
length of the tenon, is buried in
an auxiliary rip fence. This way,
the fence can act as an end stop to
gauge the length of the tenon while
the dado blade cuts one cheek in a
single pass. An auxiliary fence is
attached to the miter gauge to back
up the cut and prevent chipout.
FirsT, adjusT.
Once the saw is ready
to go, you’ll start by adjusting the
blade height, then the rip fence.
The height of the blade deter-
{
Your efforts will
be rewarded
with a flush,
tight-fitting
assembly.
3
a.
4
2
www.Woodsmith.com
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

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