104 - Shaker Hall Table.pdf

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SHAKER
HALL
TABLE
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co.
H
eirloom
P
roject
S
Haker
H
all
t
able
The simple lines of this table hide the woodworking techniques, like
mortise and tenon joinery, that make it so rewarding to build.
T
his hall table is a very traditional
Shaker project. The square
tapered legs — a hallmark of Shaker
design — lead up to the straight,
uncluttered lines of the table.
The legs are tapered on all four
sides. There are a couple of ways
you can do this. I used a shop-made
jig on the table saw. You can find
out how to build and use this jig on
page 9. Another method uses the
jointer. For more information on
this technique, see page 11.
JOINERY.
The legs are joined to the
front and side aprons with traditional
mortise and tenon joints. If you haven’t
tried this type of joinery, it’s not as
difficult as it sounds. It can all be done
on a router table (for the mortises)
and a table saw (for the tenons).
DRAWERS.
For the drawers, I used
two variations of a locked rabbet
joint. As its name implies, it locks the
sides of the drawer to the front and
back. This makes a strong joint so
the drawers can take years of use. It
is also cut entirely on the table saw.
FINISH.
I built this table out of cherry.
One of the keys to success when
finishing cherry is patience. It takes
time for the wood to reach the rich red
color that cherry is known for.
When it comes from the lumber-
yard, cherry is usually a light pink
or salmon color. There’s no need
to stain it to get the dark color. As
soon as the finish is applied, the
wood will darken somewhat. With
time (approximately six months)
and continued exposure to sun-
light, it will turn a rich, dark red. It’s
well worth the wait.
LAMP TABLE.
In the Designer’s
Notebook on page 8, we show how
you can make a lamp table com-
panion piece (or two) by simply
shortening the length of the table.
And since the construction is so sim-
ilar, it’s easy to cut the parts for the
lamp table while you’re set up to cut
pieces for the hall table.
1
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© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
Construction Details
Overall Dimensions:
42" x 14!/2" x 29"
14!/2
J
TOP
42
1
!/2"
SQUARE
TOP OF LEGS
1!/2
C
SIDE APRON
DRAWER
GUIDE
G
37
TOP
MOUNT
H
5!/4
5!/2
BACK
APRON
B
6
SLOT
MORTISE
5!/2
A
D
FRONT
RAIL
F
FRONT
CENTERS
TAPER
STARTING
LINE
FRONT
ENDS
E
DRAWER
BACK
M
I
DRAWER
RUNNER
10!/2
28!/4
!/4
DRAWER
BOTTOM
N
A
LEG
!/2
1!/2
#/4
K
DRAWER
FRONT
1!/2
CORNER DETAIL
L
DRAWER
SIDE
TAPER
!/4"
FROM
EACH SIDE
MATeRIAls
A
Legs (4)
1
1
/
2
x 1
1
/
2
- 28
1
/
4
3
/ x 5
1
/ - 37
B
Back Apron (1)
4
2
3
/ x 5
1
/ - 10
1
/
C
Side Aprons (2)
4
2
2
3
/ x 1 - 37
D
Front Rails (2)
4
3
/ x 3
1
/ - 2
3
/
E
Front Ends (2)
4
2
4
F
Front Center (1)
3
/
4
x 3
1
/
2
- 3
1
/
2
G
Drawer Guides (2)
3
/
4
x 1
1
/
2
- 10
3
/
4
3
/ x 1
1
/ - 10
3
/
H
Top Mounts (3)
4
2
4
3
/ x 1
1
/ - 10
3
/
I
Drawer Runners (4)
4
2
4
3
/ x 14
1
/ - 42
J
Top (1)
4
2
3
/ x 4
3
/ - 14
11
/
K
Fronts (2)
4
16
16
1
/ x 3
7
/ - 10
3
/
L
Sides (4)
2
16
4
1
/ x 2
15
/ - 13
7
/
M Backs (2)
2
16
16
1
/ ply. - 10
5
/ x 13
7
/
N
Bottoms (2)
4
8
16
(2) #6 x
3
/
4
"
Rh woodscrews
(6) #8 x 1
1
/
4
" Rh woodscrews
(6)
3
/
16
"
flat washers
(18)
3
/
4
" brads
(4)
5
/
8
"
brads
(4) 1"-dia. cherry knobs w/ screws
1
CUTTING DIAGRAM
1
!/2
x 3
!/4
- 60 (3.2 Bd. Ft.)
A
#/4
x 5
#/4
- 60 (2.5 Bd. Ft.)
B
#/4
x 6
!/2
- 84 (3.9 Bd. Ft.)
D
E
K
F
D
#/4
x 6 - 96 (4 Bd. Ft.)
G
G
J
!/2
x 3
#/4
- 84 (2.1 Sq. Ft.)
L
L
L
L
M
M
NOTE:
ALSO NEED ONE SHEET OF
!/4"
x 24" x 48" PLYWOOD FOR DRAWER BOTTOMS.
C
C
A
K
E
J
I
H
H
H
I
J
I
I
2
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© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
1
LEG
A
Legs
a.
5!/4
STOP
BLOCK
NOTE:
MEASURE TO
RIGHT SIDE OF BIT
!/4
(/16
!/4"
STRAIGHT
BIT
2
a.
!/4
1
!/4
1!/2
1!/2
BOTTOM VIEW
!/4
1
!/4
3
PIPE CLAMPS
3!/2
2#/4
14
FRONT
APRON
E
The shaker hall table project starts by
making the tapered legs and cutting the
mortises in each of them. To do this,
begin by cutting four leg blanks (A) to
1
1
⁄
2
" square by 28
1
⁄
4
" long (refer to the con-
struction details on page 2).
MORTISES.
After cutting the legs to size,
mark two adjacent sides where the mor-
tises will be cut. (It’s best to cut them
before tapering the legs.) The mortises
are easy to cut on a router table with a
1
⁄ " straight bit. To set up the router table
4
for, start by raising the bit to
9
⁄
16
" (Fig. 1a).
Then move the fence until the bit is cen-
tered on the thickness of the leg.
The length of the mortise is set by
clamping a stop block to the fence 5
1
⁄
4
"
from the right side of the bit (Fig. 1). Then
cut the mortises on two adjacent sides.
TAPERS.
After the mortises are routed,
the next step is to taper all four sides
of each leg. To cut the tapers, I used a
sliding platform jig on the table saw (see
Fig. 2 and the jig article on page 9). Or
taper the legs using a jointer, as shown in
the article on page 11.
Whatever method you use, the point
is to cut a taper on each side of the leg
that starts 6" from the top end and tapers
down so the bottom end is 1" square. This
means cutting
1
⁄
4
" off each side (Fig. 2a).
14
2#/4
D
E
F
NOTE:
GRAIN DIRECTION
RUNS SIDE-TO-SIDE
Aprons
1
#/4"
5!/2
3!/2
END VIEW
1
4
NOTE:
GROOVE FRONT
AND BACK
APRONS
a.
SAW
FENCE
EQUALS
THICKNESS
OF CROSS
MEMBER
JOINT
LINE
!/2
B
FRONT
APRON
BACK
APRON
%/16
DADO
BLADE
After the tapers are cut, the next step is
to cut the front apron assembly. This con-
sists of five pieces glued together to form
two drawer openings (Fig. 3).
FRONT APRON.
To make the front apron,
start by ripping the top and bottom
rails (D) 1" wide by 37" long. To get a
good grain match for the apron, make
sure to cut the pieces as shown in the
cutting diagram on page 2.
To make the three dividers for this
front assembly, rip a blank 3
1
⁄
2
" wide.
Then cut off two end dividers (E) 2
3
⁄
4
"
long, and a front center (F) 3
1
⁄
2
" long.
(This ensures that the grain runs the
same direction as the rails.)
ASSEMBLE FRONT APRON.
After cutting
all five pieces for the front apron, glue
and clamp the dividers between the
top and bottom rails (Fig. 3). Make
sure the center divider (F) is centered
on the length, and the end dividers
(E) are flush with the ends.
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.
3
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BACK AND SIDE APRONS.
Next, cut the back
apron (B) and side aprons (C). Start by
ripping the stock for these pieces to a
width of 5
1
⁄
2
". Then cut the three pieces
to finished lengths of 10
1
⁄
2
" for the sides,
and 37" for the back. (The back apron
should be exactly as wide and as long as
the front assembly.)
GROOvES.
To support and guide the
drawers, cross members (G, H, I) fit into
1
⁄ "-wide grooves cut along the inside
2
faces of the front and back aprons (refer
to Fig. 11 on page 5).
The positions of these grooves are crit-
ical. They have to be cut so that when the
drawer runners (I) are mounted, they’re
flush with the top edge of the front apron’s
bottom rail (refer to Fig. 11c on page 5).
To set up the saw for this position,
adjust the fence so the distance from the
inside edge of the rail (the joint line shown
in Fig. 4a on page 3) to the inside edge of
the dado blade equals the thickness of the
stock for the drawer runner. (This means
you need to measure from the joint line,
not the rip fence.) Then cut the grooves in
the front and back aprons (Fig. 4).
TENONS.
Now tenons can be cut on the
ends of the aprons to fit the mortises in the
legs. I cut them on the table saw (Fig. 5).
The
1
⁄
2
"-long tenon is formed by cut-
ting
1
⁄
2
"-wide rabbets on both faces of
the apron (see Fig. 5a). Note: The tenon
is
1
⁄
16
" less than the depth of the mortise
to allow a little glue relief at the bottom
of the mortise.
To cut the tenons, I used a
3
⁄
4
"-wide
dado blade and moved a plywood auxil-
iary fence over the blade so only
1
⁄
2
" was
exposed (see Fig. 5).
Sneak up on the final height of the blade
by raising it and making a pass on both
faces of a scrap piece until the tenon fits
the mortise. Once set, cut rabbets on both
ends of all four aprons to produce tenons
centered on the thickness of the stock.
Note: To get a tight fit against the leg,
I used a chisel to slightly undercut the
shoulders of each tenon. (See the box at
the bottom of this page for more on this.)
NOTCH TENONS.
So that the top of each
apron will sit flush with the top of each leg,
the bottom end of each tenon has to be
notched (Fig. 7). Since the mortises are
rounded on the bottom, I cut the tenon
a trifle shorter so I didn’t have to square
up the bottom of the mortise. This means
cutting a
3
⁄
8
" notch on the bottom of each
tenon (Fig. 6).
END PIECES.
To make assembly easier, I
glued a pair of legs to each side apron to
produce two complete end units. But don’t
glue on the front or back aprons yet.
5
DADO
BLADE
6
BACK
B
NOTCH
BOTTOM
OF EACH
TENON
7
SIDE APRON
C
GLUE
SIDES
TO
LEGS
a.
!/4
PLYWOOD
AUX. FENCE
APRON
TENON
a.
#/8
TENON
NOTCH
5!/4
5!/8
TEST FIT
TENONS
AFTER
CUTTING
NOTCH
!/2
TIGHT FIT SHOULDERS
There’s an easy way to make mortise
and tenon joints fit together without
gaps at the shoulders.
“Undercutting” simply means
paring away the end grain
1
⁄
64
" deep
along the tenon’s shoulders.
The trick is to undercut the area
next to the tenon cheek, leaving at
least
1
⁄
16
" untouched along the out-
side edge of the shoulder. If you cut
all the way to the edge, you’ll have a
gap and a loose joint.
Start by lightly pushing a chisel
straight into the corner (Fig. 1). Do
this all the way around the tenon.
Then to remove the waste, angle
the chisel in toward the cheek of
the tenon (Fig. 2).
Also, to prevent the square ends
of the tenon from pushing all the
glue to the bottom of the mortise,
lightly chamfer the ends (Fig. 3).
This chamfer can be cut with a
chisel or block plane.
1
LIGHTLY
CHISEL DOWN
ALONG TENON
INTO SHOULDER
2
LEAVE
!/16"
BORDER
BEVEL
SHOULDERS
TOWARD
TENON
3
LIGHTLY
CHAMFER
TENON EDGES
4
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© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reserved.

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